Author Topic: CGW PRO upgrade project for P-01 (Pic heavy)  (Read 39479 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline BDG

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 809
CGW PRO upgrade project for P-01 (Pic heavy)
« on: December 12, 2014, 05:00:31 PM »
USPS comes through in their busiest time of the year...
I hope I can make the time to complete the CGW PRO Kit install this weekend.
« Last Edit: May 19, 2016, 01:55:20 AM by BDG »

Offline Tok36

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 5164
Re: X-Mas project for P-01
« Reply #1 on: December 12, 2014, 10:37:55 PM »
Nice! May the force be with you. Let us know how it goes.

I completed the SRS install last night, its went smooth. Hopefully ill get to the rest of the Pro Package parts this weekend as well.
Will work for CZ pics! (including but not limited to all CZ clones)

Offline BDG

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 809
Re: X-Mas project for P-01
« Reply #2 on: December 12, 2014, 11:43:07 PM »
Thanks, TOK.
I'm going to photo-document the process start to finish. I know some information will end up being redundant but, I will be using some different equipment to polish the action than that demonstrated in other tutorials so maybe some will find it useful.
Documentation Plan:
1. Stock trigger pull weights
2. Stock trigger resting position, SA reset point (any suggestions on how to best document this visually? I'm still trying to figure this one out, maybe graph paper?)
3. Disassembly
4. Polishing
5. PRO Parts Kit install and reassemble
6. PRO package results for trigger pull weights, trigger resting position and SA reset point. (Another visually challenging task)


Offline BDG

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 809
Re: X-Mas project for P-01
« Reply #3 on: December 12, 2014, 11:44:53 PM »
Nice! May the force be with you. Let us know how it goes.

I completed the SRS install last night, its went smooth. Hopefully ill get to the rest of the Pro Package parts this weekend as well.

Glad to hear it was a smooth install too!
Are you happy with the results?
« Last Edit: December 12, 2014, 11:48:47 PM by BDG »

Offline Tok36

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 5164
Re: X-Mas project for P-01
« Reply #4 on: December 13, 2014, 01:35:44 AM »
Nice! May the force be with you. Let us know how it goes.

I completed the SRS install last night, its went smooth. Hopefully ill get to the rest of the Pro Package parts this weekend as well.

Glad to hear it was a smooth install too!
Are you happy with the results?

Yes, quite pleased with the SRS so far. Threw in the 11.5 hammer spring and did a bit of polishing (bottem of sear/sear cage, FPB plunger) and i can feel the difference from that as well. The reset is noticeably shorter. This 85B was already well broken in so all together the action is quite smooth even before polishing the rest of the surfaces. The best part is surely the satisfaction of completing the work at home and gaining a better understanding of the mechanics of the CZ75. A few things that i did not understand are now clear.

I look forward to reading the documentation you have planed. Sounds interesting.
Will work for CZ pics! (including but not limited to all CZ clones)

Offline BDG

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 809
Re: X-Mas project for P-01
« Reply #5 on: December 14, 2014, 10:23:06 PM »
Here is a breakdown of the work on the P-01. Unfortunately, I did not have a good approach for measuring the resting position of the trigger or the SA reset point, as I would have liked. Taking comparative measurements from the trigger frame was not an option because the triggers were changed out in the PRO Kit upgrade. I'm sure the figures posted by Cajun Gun Works are accurate and indicative of the changes realized here.
Stock P-01 Field stripped


Jumping into the work; Removing the Ejector/Sear Cage began with removing the hammer decocking lever controler. This was accomplished by lifting the Sear Spring from its set position in the cage. While lifting the spring with a pick or bladed tool also works well, I worked the controller lever with short press and release motions and wedged my thumbnail between the controller and frame to move the lever out. You can also press the controller lever from the right side of the frame to the left with a punch.
 



This is the point on the decocking lever controller that engages the decking lever. Polishing this area and the corresponding area on the decocking lever removed the gritty feel.




Next remove the fixing insert which is used to retain the sear spring pin. Insert removes by sliding it toward the larger opening. you will notice the insert riding in a channel cut specifically for it when removing it.



I was now able to remove the Sear Pin by pushing it out with a pin punch from the right side of the frame to the left. I did not intend to remove the full cage assembly in tact so I did not use a slave pin to press out the sear pin. I held my thumb over the assembly when inserting and removing the punch so that the springs wouldn't be launched and lost.






I next removed the grips. The Main spring plug was removed by compressing the main spring plug against the work bench and pushing out the plug pin which is only held in place by the tension of the main spring. Here is an after the fact image. Removal of the magazine break is achieved by bowing the break in the center and unhooking the break from the plug while it is compressed. Sorry Image was lost.


Mag break pin is punched out from right to left. The left end of this pin was flattened on its edge to increase resistance at the edge of the frame hole. This step was not necessary for this work being done.


I then went about removing the hammer by lifting the hammer pin retaining peg and hammer retaining pin. The peg easily lifts out with a pick and the pin easily pushes out from the right to left side of frame.




And the Hammer assembly (hammer, strut, disconnecter) lift right out.


Here is a good look at the differences in geometry of the Stock and CGW Hammer and Disconnecters. Note the differences in the hooks...this why I do not polish the sear contact points to the hook. With only .008" to hold onto I want the sear breaking not slipping off the hook. I want some friction in that tiny area for that crisp trigger feel.


Removing the trigger bar started with driving out the trigger pin. The factory trigger pin is flared at each end to keep it in the gun. A starter punch will help to get this pin started. Keeping with the right to left theme I started the pin out and then switched to a roll pin punch so that I could retain the pin as an emergency back up. Again, I covered the frame opening with my hand when removing the punch so that the spring was not lost.



Now the trigger bar assembly can be lifter out.


Trigger removal from trigger bar


This trigger bar didn't have as much tooling marks as others I've seen including my SP-01.



These grooves ride on a spring mounted in the frame. I debur these grooves with 000 steel wool and using my finger nail to press the steel wool into the groove. I then polish lightly with the wheel and clean the rouge from the groove.


All the polishing was completed on a 6" wheel. I hold all the parts bare handed so that I am aware of the temperature being generated during polishing and I do not overheat the pieces. The wheel creates a mirror finish with low risk of removing too much material but you must pay close attention to the heat generated by the pad. Keeping the part moving and short polishing times in one area is required.






Finished pieces with even minor tooling marks still visible in the mirror finish


Polished surfaces that ride against each other


I next removed the firing pin to install the new CGW extended firing pin and lighter springs. This was done to ensure proper primer ignition with the new 13# main spring. A roll pin punch was used to drive the firing pin roll pin from right side to left side of the slide however the direction for this pin was not directional like others. I think its just a good habit when working on CZ's to remove pins from right to left side of pistol and reinsert from left to right. When removing the roll pin punch the firing pin will spring back against the firing pin block and stop. depressing the FPB will allow removal of the firing pin. once firing pin is removed the firing pin block can be removed. make sure you remove the firing pin spring from the FP chamber.




Now it is time to reassemble all the polished and CGW upgraded components.
I started with the CGW firing pin (FP) assembly. The important part to reassembly of the FP group is to align the channels in the FP so that when fully inserted in the chamber you are able to see cleanly through the roll pin hole without obstruction by the firing pin. Once position of FP is correct, maintain depressed FP and drive in new roll pin. Failing to hold the FP all the way in during installation of roll pin can cause the roll pin to bind on the FP. I used the stock hammer to depress the FP while installing the roll pin with a roll pin starter punch. The right tools for the job make the work pleasurable.




Roll Pin properly installed with opening in the 12 o'clock position.




I installed the lighter trigger spring and used the slave pin provided in the kit.


With the trigger bar assembly in place and the slave pin holding the trigger spring I was able to hold down the trigger bar with my thumb and work the trigger with my left index to align the trigger spring slave pin and trigger pin holes in the frame. I installed the CGW floating trigger pin which is held in place by the spring. The trigger pin can be started by hand and then a I used a small nylon block to complete install and driving out the slave pin.



The new hammer, hammer strut, disconnecter, and hardened pins drop right in.
Disconnecter drops into position on the trigger bar. Replace hammer pin left to right and hammer pin peg.




Here is the correct position/setting of the decocker spring... I took these images after assembling the sear cage with a slave pin.






I reassembled the ejector/sear cage assembly using a slave pin provided in the PRO kit. I used my thumb to press the assembly down onto the trigger bar and reward into place against the hammer and aligned with the sear spring pin holes in frame. Sear spring pin pushes in from left to ride side of frame. Note, if using a slave pin other than one supplied specifically for this application make sure it will fit through the frame hole on the right side of the frame. This hole is smaller than the sear spring pin to prevent the exit of the pin from the ride side of the frame.  Replace fixing insert.




Reinstalled the decocking lever controller by lifting the sear spring and inserting the lever controller until it made contact with the decocking lever. I finished inserting controller by depressing the decocking lever so that the controller contact point could pass over the lever.



reinstalled Mag break upper pin left to right


installed new 13# main spring. Used the edge of the bench again to compress the main spring and reinstall main spring plug, Mag break and plug pin.


Finished product


Trigger feel is smooth, short, light and crisp.

Looking forward to the next project.

« Last Edit: November 12, 2016, 11:22:19 PM by BDG »

Offline viking499

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4322
Re: X-Mas project for P-01
« Reply #6 on: December 14, 2014, 10:31:42 PM »
Awesome detailed pics.  Thanks for sharing.

Offline 2morechains

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 870
Re: X-Mas project for P-01
« Reply #7 on: December 14, 2014, 10:35:40 PM »
Nice job on the pictorial, very well done!  Thx for posting. 

Offline cntrydawwwg

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 5051
Re: X-Mas project for P-01
« Reply #8 on: December 14, 2014, 10:53:24 PM »
Great pics and details.
If guns are outlawed.........
 Only outlaws will have guns.

Offline ace73

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1145
Re: X-Mas project for P-01
« Reply #9 on: December 14, 2014, 11:06:34 PM »
Nice pics!!

Offline Tok36

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 5164
Re: X-Mas project for P-01
« Reply #10 on: December 14, 2014, 11:49:37 PM »
BDG, thank you for taking the time to post this reference on the CZ decockers. Well done indeed. It will come in handy when i dig into my PCR and or 97 BD. I am sure it will be of value to others working on there decockers as well, Bookmarked.

On another note, that is the nicest trigger bar i have seen. I was not aware that they ever looked that way stock.
Will work for CZ pics! (including but not limited to all CZ clones)

Offline BDG

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 809
Re: X-Mas project for P-01
« Reply #11 on: December 15, 2014, 12:51:56 AM »
Thank you all for the kind words.

TOK, I'm jealous of your 97BD. It looks like time is going to run out before I get the chance to have my own 97B or BD here in Ca. Can't wait to move to America one day. Maybe I'll have the luck of running into you at the range one day.
The trigger bar on my SP-01 was deeply scared by tooling and had multiple wear points on the outer profile where it brushed the frame. I had 4x the polishing required on the SP-01 trigger bar.
This is also why I believe the P-01 had a very respectable stock trigger pull.

Oh Yes, I measured the trigger weights with the GPS trigger scale and pull weights were duplicated with a RCBS.

A process I completed before and after reassembly but did not photo was the degreasing, cleaning, and hot application of Frog Lube using all FL products, not a cheep decision unfortunately. I decided to run the SP-01 and P-01 completely on Frog Lube from the start so I had to use the frog lube cleaners to strip the factory protectants, machining lubes and coolants. Stay tuned.



« Last Edit: December 15, 2014, 01:53:02 AM by BDG »

Offline gary2232

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 59
Re: X-Mas CGW PRO upgrade project for P-01 (Pic heavy)
« Reply #12 on: December 18, 2014, 10:48:47 PM »
Another book make added. Great post I have the same bag of parts from CGW got in mail today. Get gun from 10 day wait on the 26th .  Going to order 85 trigger forgot it.. Thanks for the pics...

Offline BDG

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 809
Re: X-Mas CGW PRO upgrade project for P-01 (Pic heavy)
« Reply #13 on: December 18, 2014, 11:11:59 PM »
Another book make added. Great post I have the same bag of parts from CGW got in mail today. Get gun from 10 day wait on the 26th .  Going to order 85 trigger forgot it.. Thanks for the pics...

Thanks Gary2232.
You are going to be ecstatic with the results of polishing and the PRO kit.

 I'll be completing the same work on a 97BD around the end of the month. My 97 10day is up on the 27th.
I'm still working on a good way to measure via a photo, the trigger position before and after the upgrade as well as improve my photo work on the Decocking mechanism smoothing.

Offline burlycz

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 209
Re: X-Mas CGW PRO upgrade project for P-01 (Pic heavy)
« Reply #14 on: January 02, 2015, 08:40:58 PM »
This is a great thread, and a great companion to schmeky's polishing sticky.

Thanks for all the documentation effort BDG!