P-07 trigger stacking

[Pukindog12]

I just purchased a NIB 2014 P-07 manufactured in Feb. 2014.   I have read about the amazing trigger on this gun but I find the DA to be ok.  While somewhat smooth (and it should smooth out even more with use) the trigger has considerable stacking before it breaks.  Is this normal?  BTW, this is my first CZ.

I have read that lessening the tension on the trigger bar spring will help a bit.  Is this true?  Is there anything else I can do to get rid of the stacking?  

Any input is appreciated.  Thanks!

[Raining_Brass]

I polished all the internals on my P-07 and that smoothed the DA out quite a bit. Worth the 30-45 minutes it takes to disassemble the gun and polish the parts.

One of the guys here, Joe, has a fantastic video on P-07/09 disassembly and reassembly.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ChRsfL_xyHs

[ocny17]

I polished all the internals on my P-07 and that smoothed the DA out quite a bit. Worth the 30-45 minutes it takes to disassemble the gun and polish the parts.

One of the guys here, Joe, has a fantastic video on P-07/09 disassembly and reassembly.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ChRsfL_xyHs

Raining_Brass: Did you just polish the OEM internal components or did you use an aftermarket (i.e. CGW, CZC) parts to achieve the more refined DA trigger pull?

[Raining_Brass]

I polished all the internals on my P-07 and that smoothed the DA out quite a bit. Worth the 30-45 minutes it takes to disassemble the gun and polish the parts.

One of the guys here, Joe, has a fantastic video on P-07/09 disassembly and reassembly.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ChRsfL_xyHs

Raining_Brass: Did you just polish the OEM internal components or did you use an aftermarket (i.e. CGW, CZC) parts to achieve the more refined DA trigger pull?

All the OEM parts.
Only CGW parts this gun has is CGW spring kit and enhanced firing pin. The spring kit does make the DA pull a bit better though, but it doesn't take out the grit and all like the polishing does.

[Coleman]

If your mechanically inclined I can tell ya how to help it alot I'm not responsible for any accidents. But you can simply remove the hammer spring trim 2 coils off first put it back in try it if it doesn't suit ya take one off at time until ya get what you want in double action. But there is a limit to were you'll get light hammer strikes there is a happy medium. At the worse you can go to far and l you'll have to do is order a spring. On the single action you can hone the sear engagement on the hammer as long as you maintain the same angle I never touch the front where it sits on the sear only shorten it to were there's less hanging on this is touch and go always measure the original height it so you can keep up with the amount t you've removed and always keep it straight from one side to the other. This will create a crisp clean break. Again the worst that can happen is you'll have to replace the trigger but this is harder to screw up than the spring remember your shortening the sear engagement of the hammer taking it off the top maintaining all original angles. What this does is gives the sear itself less real estate to move off of on the hammer. Theres no use in touching the sear CZs have pretty good sears in them. OR YOU CAN SIMPLY ORDER ALL THIS DROP IN READY TO GO FROM CAJUN GUN WORKS GREAT PRODUCTS CANT GO WRONG

[FakeCZName]

Wouldn't Pukindog's problem be solved by putting in the CGW oversized roller?

[schmeky]

There are 4 key areas that improve the P-07/09 DA:

1) Remove the "bow" or curve from the trigger bar via polishing, + polish the internals
2) Adjust the trigger bar support spring
3) Remove the glue/adhesive from the D/C'er lever/sear slot
4) Replace the springs

We are typically seeing a DA of 7.2 - 7.8lbs on the P-07/09's we work on, but sometimes have one that will barely go under 8#'s.
 

[FakeCZName]

Schmecky: Thanks, for the list of things that actually make a difference.

Could you elaborate a bit on #3?

Where is the D/C'er lever/sear slot? And what do you use to remove the glue that won't dissolve or remove that which is necessary to remain?

[cntrydawwwg]

Here's a thread Schmeky started on tuning the P series.
http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=66147

[briang2ad]

There are 4 key areas that improve the P-07/09 DA:

1) Remove the "bow" or curve from the trigger bar via polishing, + polish the internals
2) Adjust the trigger bar support spring
3) Remove the glue/adhesive from the D/C'er lever/sear slot
4) Replace the springs

We are typically seeing a DA of 7.2 - 7.8lbs on the P-07/09's we work on, but sometimes have one that will barely go under 8#'s.

Resurrecting, because I cannot find the answers in the attached thread that is many pages long.

Where is the "bow" in the trigger bar?  anyone have pics?  Anyone have a pic of the glue in the D/C'er slot?

Thanks.

[Hemiscorpius lepturus]

The trigger bar is made of stamped steel, and is not perfectly flat , the curve is not visible to the eye, but does effect how it rubs against the plastic. The curve itself is not that much of a problem, I would say the bigger issue is the roughness of the surface where it rubs. Using #800 sandpaper to get the surface treatment off and flatten the surface, then #2000 to polish it to a mirror finish removes most of the friction on the plastic.

I did not see any glue, but I did install a CGW pro kit so a bunch of internals were replaced and not inspected. I also polished the trigger itself, and the assembly pins, and the sear. My trigger now has 0 stacking, I mean absolutely 0, you cannot tell it is going to break until it does. It is glorious

[Colorado Shooter]

I?d echo what Hemi said. Take the trigger bar out, lay it on a flat surface and you?ll see how non flat it really is. You?ll also notice the shiny surfaces where it?s rubbing on the frame. These are the areas you need to focus on. I polished all the trigger and ignition group surfaces and it made a marginal difference in my DA. Each pistol reacts differently, so keep that in mind.

[briang2ad]

Did all this - polished the TB, other parts, did polishing,etc. on the left side of the hammer and hammer well, dry fired thousands of times, shot several hundred rounds, and while the action has smoothed some,there is MUCH stacking half way through the DA pull.  Guess it was a Friday special.

[DOC 1500]

Brian you should be polishing " all " metal-to-metal contact points.
As far as the trigger bar, when you take it out get a sharpening stone wide and long ( like for sharpening knives  mine is about 2 inches wide and about 8 inches long )and keep rubbing (the side of the trigger bar that touches the frame), on the stone until it's flat then polish the Daylights out of it to a chrome finish.
Put in a reduced power firing pin spring reduced power trigger spring and a 15 pound hammer spring.

[DOC 1500]

After I made that last post I realized that after I stoned it I wrap the stone with 800 grit then 1500 grit then polished it.