split upper handguard

[CitizenPete]

That whole "sanding in" process sounds interesting. Also seems like a hell of a lota work.

Takes time.

As mentioned I didn't do the 600, but I did the 400 twice.  You can get 600 from an automotive painting supply store if you want that level of finish. Other than that I pretty much followed the directions on that web page. After the final sanding and final wiping with a cotton cloth (instead of the paper roll on the last sanding) I let it dry for over 48 hours.  Then added a couple coats of floor wax.   Used a stain with some polyurethane in it - remember its first mixed and thinned out like water with the Mineral Spirits. Suggest getting the odorless Mineral Spirits.

I did a few days of degreasing (rubbing alcohol) and dry sanding first with 220 because this furniture was really old and had lots of oils and varnish on them.  I wanted them clean enough to except the stain but I did not want to strip them to bare wood.

During the first 3-4 wet standings with 220 it looks like shiza, but then gets better and better when your into the 320 sanding rounds.  I rigged a drying cabinet from a cardboard box and hung the grip and stock inside from wires during the tacky stages and for each overnight drying. The hand guards can just set off to the sides on the bottom of the box.  I don't have any pics of any of that stuff. Sorry.







JB Weld Metal Epoxy coat on back of upper handguard - (de-greased, cleaned it up, and roughed up surface first)
I heard it crack on installation but at least did not break in totally in half.  



Final wipe with cloth.








Forget about the color for a minute if you don't like it, but pics really don't do the finish justice.   The distressed marks and discoloration of the original 50 year old wood is still there and that's what I was aiming for.  Worth the time, effort and cramped fingers?  I think it was for one of my VZ2000 rifles.  Will I still be able to play the piano?  Never could before.

Some day I will actually get around to putting it on the gun.  But that would mean actually finishing a project and I don't want to ruin my reputation. DOH!

[sgms18]

Wow! That looks great man. Good work. I like the color too. Think i figured out why i broke mine. Looks like the vz2008 upper handguard is bulged in the center & the standard ones are not. Im sure this added undue tension when trying to install the wood.

[CitizenPete]

Wow! That looks great man. Good work. I like the color too. Think i figured out why i broke mine. Looks like the vz2008 upper handguard is bulged in the center & the standard ones are not. Im sure this added undue tension when trying to install the wood.

On the inside ? 

[sgms18]

Yes.
http://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=4&f=99&t=154865

look about 2/3 way down the page.

[sgms18]

So i took my other vz2008 apart & the heat shield is bulged out in the center too.  Wasn't till i started lookin closely at pics online that i realized they weren't supposed to be that way. Century strikes again!  They must have bent em out there cause all the Czech ones look straight.

[sgms18]

[img] http://www.dropshots.com/sgms18/date/2015-03-25/22:16:47/[img] 

[CitizenPete]

So i took my other vz2008 apart & the heat shield is bulged out in the center too.  Wasn't till i started lookin closely at pics online that i realized they weren't supposed to be that way. Century strikes again!  They must have bent em out there cause all the Czech ones look straight.

Maybe they bent them out to hold the hand guard in place, because the retention tabs are cut off?

[CitizenPete]

WTH were they thinking.  I should "Czech" mine - if I can get the darn QD pins out.


OOW has them for $20
http://www.ohioordnanceworks.com/hand-guard-heat-shield

APEX for $24
https://apexgunparts.com/product_info.php/products_id/522

Czechpoint $57

[sgms18]

Thats what im thinkin. Wish i would've known that before hand but sometimes ya gota learn the hard way. So beware the century upper handguard or you may wind up like this.. http://www.dropshots.com/sgms18/date/2015-03-23/17:37:21

[Mikes250r]

I love the wood. I think it looks so classy. Not to mention it makes for a great shooter.  The color stain you picked out is perfect. I want to buy another 2008 and trick it out in the original classic birch. I am jealous.

[sgms18]

CP how did you get the pic to show up in the post? All i could figure out how to do was post the link.

[CitizenPete]

CP how did you get the pic to show up in the post? All i could figure out how to do was post the link.

Fixed it for ya. 

Ya, don't ask me -- I think it might be "Dropshots" blocking it? Don't know. 
I run freeware IP blocker Peerblock 1.2 on my laptop (PLEASE, everyone should if you value your privacy and data! You won't fracking believe who is on your computer! peerblock.com) So anyway, I thought Peerblock was blocking the IP because it was spying on me.  So I enabled HTTP for a moment and it still didn't show up.  Then I noticed you had an extra space in front of the file name, but that wasn't it either.    So it's MCS!

So here is the trick I do when MCS (Mysterious Computer Sheet) happens.  Go to the source picture (Dropshot pic in this case) and right click on it and select "Open Image in New Tab". Then activate that tab and cut/paste that URL from the browser app -- I believe it takes out any hidden characters, etc. and gives you the server source.   BTW, I am using either Chrome or Mozilla FireFox browser(s) (Don't ever use Windows Explorer).

[sgms18]

Thanks for the tip. I'll have to try that out. It really shouldn't be such a pita to post pics.

[gwvt]

Nice job on the wood furniture!

[JohnEd]

HOLD ON!  That wood can be easily removed in tact and undamaged.  Refinished wood can be re-installed in the metal grip without damage.  Really!

Looking under the hand-guard there are two metal tabs that keep the wood from twisting free.  Bend or cut only one tab straight/off.  The wood portion then simply twists out of the metal.  It is held in place by the "rails" in the front and back but they allow the thing to turn within their grip.  Install is the reverse but if you cut the tab then you need glue or something to re-affix the parts.  If you were clever and simply straightened the one tab then some bending will do the trick.

Ever better news is that there is more than one version of the front lower guard.  One of mine has a "clip" that is forced into metal part of the guard and that clip locks the wood from turning in the grooves. 

I know, I know, I kicked myself too.  Clue was that the wood is sold as a separate items so someone knows how to separate the wood from the metal and that kept me looking and thinking till the apiffammy.