CZ 40P issues

[wtburnette]

Indeed, you can't go wrong with Dan Wesson. Excellent choice. I recently purchased a Springfield 1911 a1 loaded and really like it. Shoots well and very smooth trigger..

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The Loaded is very nice.  I have one in stainless.  My trigger was a bit gritty out of the box, so I had a local smith install a new C&S trigger which is now very smooth and crisp.  Very sweet gun.

[Nubia]

Indeed, you can't go wrong with Dan Wesson. Excellent choice. I recently purchased a Springfield 1911 a1 loaded and really like it. Shoots well and very smooth trigger..

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

The Loaded is very nice.  I have one in stainless.  My trigger was a bit gritty out of the box, so I had a local smith install a new C&S trigger which is now very smooth and crisp.  Very sweet gun.

C&S trigger?

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[wtburnette]

Indeed, you can't go wrong with Dan Wesson. Excellent choice. I recently purchased a Springfield 1911 a1 loaded and really like it. Shoots well and very smooth trigger..

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

The Loaded is very nice.  I have one in stainless.  My trigger was a bit gritty out of the box, so I had a local smith install a new C&S trigger which is now very smooth and crisp.  Very sweet gun.

C&S trigger?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Cylinder & Slide:  http://www.cylinder-slide.com/

They have nice trigger kits, as well as other 1911 parts.  I don't recall the exact trigger kit I ordered from Brownell's, as it's been about a year, but it's very nice.  Around 2.5 - 3lb trigger pull.

Actually, looking up my order from December of last year, I found the link:

http://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/trigger-group-parts/performance-enhancing-kits/tactical-ii-trigger-pull-kit-sku206103052-5502-12767.aspx

The kit I ordered was the Tactical II trigger pull kit.  It was the one my gunsmith recommended.

[chiddly]

Very interested to hear how it goes when you get it all the way you want it!
[/quote]


Ok, after the latest range trip I can report that my 40 p runs very well..... 200 rounds with one fail to feed late in the  run. Ran 3 different ammos, 2 were reman, freedom and precision along with new perfecta so some of the cheaper ammo out there. 2 mags were new mecgar 12 rounders from Greg Cote, 2 were stock 10 rounders all ran good, glad I had a maglula to get 12 rounds in the mecgars but they loaded and ran great. The only downfall from this range trip was I shot the paint out of the left rear sight dot, didn't seem to hurt much any and I may like it better blacked out on the rear so the other paint is coming off the rear now. Overall very pleased with this gun so far.

[CZDad]

Pics!  lol 

[Indy_Tim]

I ran another 50 rounds through my 40P today and had no issues.  The main difference this time was that I was running the stock recoil spring over a steel guide rod from the industrial supply company linked above.  I'll try to get out to the range before the coming holiday and do a decent test.  But, I'm optimistic after this 50 rounds.

[Indy_Tim]

I bought WTBurnette's spare 40P off of him, with his full disclosure of the cycling issue.  On my first outing with it, I ran one of the 10 round mags with the original spring and one with a Wolff extra power spring.  The extra power spring ran well through 25 rounds and the standard mag had multiple issues as he had experienced.  On the next outing, I ran 50 rounds with only the extra power sprung mag and again, had issues, but not as many.  I think the fresh springs helped, but did not completely eliminate the issue.

The next thing I tried was to use the mold ejector pin guide rod and it's been perfect since then.  I've run 150 rounds through the gun in two range sessions.  The first was just 50 rounds at a moderate pace, so I never really did warm the gun up much, but this mornings range trip saw 100 rounds run through the gun in about 10 minutes.  That warmed the gun up a lot and the gun still worked perfectly.  I'm going to put a fresh, factory recoil spring in the gun just because I don't know the round count on this, but I'm confident that the issue is gone now.  My guess is that the plastic guide rod just was not up to the task of controlling the spring and especially when warm, allowed the spring to contact the barrel when the gun cycled.  That's my theory at least.

After 150 rounds, I see no problems with the steel pin wearing on the frame.  I'll be keeping an eye on that though, but don't think it will be an issue.

[wtburnette]

Very nice!  I'm glad you've had time to experiment, as my time has been extremely limited!  Really happy to hear the SS guide rod seems to have fixed the issue.

[wtburnette]

So, as Indy_Tim had indicated, a SS guide rod cut down to the proper length seems to be the fix for the failure to go into battery / slow to go into battery issue.  He was kind enough to give me the one he had ordered as a spare and even cut it down for me.  I put it into my 40P, to which I did nothing else and I've yet to experience another issue with it.  I haven't run enough rounds to say with confidence it's 100% fixed, but I've put around 120 - 150 problem free rounds downrange with no issues at all. 

Here's a shot of a couple of my targets last night.  Both were shot at 7 yards.  The one on the left is from the 40P, the one on the right is from my Dan Wesson CCO:



Oh yeah, I'm loving my CCO as well 

[CZDad]

Nice work. I don't think I could do as well at 7 yards.  I'm glad you got the failure to battery issue fixed.

[wtburnette]

Thanks, I am as well.  The fix is pretty inexpensive and turns the gun reliable, which is what I wanted.  It's a fantastic shooter and I can see myself taking it to the range more often now.

[8675309]

Mine has the slow action syndrome unless 2 conditions are met.
it MUST be well oiled.
it MUST be held firmly.
I got a steel guide rod from CZ,had to ream the hole in the slide to 6mm.
I dont see why you need the bushing with a solid guide rod at all.
The goofy bendo rod that comes with it,yes you need the bushing.
I leave mine out sometimes and theres no difference.
They should've just put a steel rod it from the start.
I'll say one thing its the most accurate centerfire i own.
But I wouldnt trust my life on it,due to its tempermental behavior.
The slide to barrel fit is real tight,which i think causes some of the troubles.
I think after I shoot it a couple thousand times it'll straighten out.
Mine likes the 145 gr LEE bullet over whatever powder is available.

[tdogg]

Mine has the slow action syndrome unless 2 conditions are met.
it MUST be well oiled.
it MUST be held firmly.
I got a steel guide rod from CZ,had to ream the hole in the slide to 6mm.
I dont see why you need the bushing with a solid guide rod at all.
The goofy bendo rod that comes with it,yes you need the bushing.
I leave mine out sometimes and theres no difference.
They should've just put a steel rod it from the start.
I'll say one thing its the most accurate centerfire i own.
But I wouldnt trust my life on it,due to its tempermental behavior.
The slide to barrel fit is real tight,which i think causes some of the troubles.
I think after I shoot it a couple thousand times it'll straighten out.
Mine likes the 145 gr LEE bullet over whatever powder is available.

The bushing is not because of the polymer guide rod.  The bushing is there because the gun is a frankengun and has a Colt slide mated to a CZ frame.  It is a buffer during the slide operation to prevent gun/frame damage.  I wouldn't run the gun without the bushing (regardless of type of guide rod).

Cheers,
Toby

[8675309]

Mine has the slow action syndrome unless 2 conditions are met.
it MUST be well oiled.
it MUST be held firmly.
I got a steel guide rod from CZ,had to ream the hole in the slide to 6mm.
I dont see why you need the bushing with a solid guide rod at all.
The goofy bendo rod that comes with it,yes you need the bushing.
I leave mine out sometimes and theres no difference.
They should've just put a steel rod it from the start.
I'll say one thing its the most accurate centerfire i own.
But I wouldnt trust my life on it,due to its tempermental behavior.
The slide to barrel fit is real tight,which i think causes some of the troubles.
I think after I shoot it a couple thousand times it'll straighten out.
Mine likes the 145 gr LEE bullet over whatever powder is available.

The bushing is not because of the polymer guide rod.  The bushing is there because the gun is a frankengun and has a Colt slide mated to a CZ frame.  It is a buffer during the slide operation to prevent gun/frame damage.  I wouldn't run the gun without the bushing (regardless of type of guide rod).

Cheers,
Toby

Thanks for the info,some guy at CZ told me you needed it to keep the spring from hitting anything with the plastic rod. It still seems a kinda cheesy place for a buffer.

[tdogg]

And I agree having a steel guide rod will help minimize the buffer damage during cycling.  The 40p is the only cz I recommend a steel guide rod.  But you still need the buffer installed. It's critical dimension is it's thickness front to back not its diameter.

Cheers,
Toby