Question about barrel lock up

[racoonbeast]

I am brand new to the CZ 97B. I Love the thing, and want to make it as good as it can be. I plan to have CGW do the "Pro Trigger Package". I see the benefit in that. I am wondering about the value of the front bushing package. I have seen varying opinions on here as to just how important a tight lock up on the front of the barrel is to this particular gun. Some say that it locks up at the rear, and anything that is done to tighten the lock up at the front of the barrel is wasted money. I see others who say that it is vital to wring out the last bit of accuracy.

I am a long time 1911 guy. Something in me says that making the front of the barrel as tight as can be is a required step to accurizing the pistol. But that is a 1911 rule. Are these things different in some way? I don't mind spending the two hundred bucks to have the custom work done to install a match 1911 bushing if I am going to see some results. But, if this gun locks up in the back, and nothing that you do up front will change anything, I have other stuff that I can spend the two hundred bucks on.

Does anyone have any solid information on this? Thanks.

[coolbox]

The barrel locks up in the rear, but the lock up is vastly improved with a match fit bushing up front. This is true for all CZ 75 and 97 variants. The accu-Shadow and CZ97 BE are proof.

CGW has the CZ 97 BE edition, BE for 'Bulls Eye' I recall. While a standard CZ 97 is very accurate and would give about 2.5-3" groups at 25 yards, the 97 BE gives sub 1" groups at that distance with the right ammo, shooting from a rest, equaling the most accurate custom 1911s out there. I can't find that post from schmeky/David where he posted a target from 25 yards. It was basically one hole, only with 5 rounds through it.

[schmeky]

Coolbox,

Is correct.  The analogy for improved accuracy of virtually all Browning pattern pistols is the same:  consistent lock-up will improve accuracy.  The rear of the 97 barrels lock-up is excellent, however the front is loose with the stock screw in bushing.  A screw in bushing by it's very nature can only be tight if the threads are torqued, and this is not possible with the factory bushing. 

In addition, the barrel OD to bushing ID is loose, typically there is a .004" - .005" fit, far to loose for match grade accuracy.   On the CGW bushing this clearance is .0015", which is the precise clearance allowing the barrel to properly lock-up with -0- play.

Do you need the CGW barrel bushing?  No.  But if you want improved accuracy, you do. 

[Joe L]

I have a sloppy 1911.  When I decided to switch from 9mm to .45 cal for Bullseye at the first of this year, I asked David about the 97B"E" and he said he could sell me one that was as good as any custom 1911 mechanically.  He did.  The key is to get it tight enough to have zero play without it being too tight when it heats up to cycle. 

I have never even seen a stock 97 up close without the B"E" CGW modification, but all I needed to read was that you don't need a wrench to unscrew the stock bushing and I new it was a little too loose for a match gun.  But the amount of improvement really comes down to how loose the stock unmodified gun is, and that is hard to quantify.  You won't find any slop in the gun after David gets through with it, I can tell you that. 

I am going to do some testing on a 9mm CZ-75 this weekend for the "before" groups then I'll do it again after I put in CGW's new bushing.  I haven't really tried to shoot groups with that slide/barrel in years, since the frame has been the host for the Kadet.  My 9mm slide feels ok, but I don't recall it ever shooting very well.  I always shot the SIG 9mm instead of the 75, then later the P-09's which are superb.

Joe