SLOW RUST BLUING REFINISH

[SPO1SHADOW]

I picked up and old worn out ratty looking pre-B last week. The finish is worn and rusting, it has been dropped twice on the muzzle and has an egg shaped muzzle crown. I thought about different coatings but I have decided that the old method of slow rust bluing is what I want. With the current warm wet weather conditions it should be easy to make it happen.

[SPO1SHADOW]

The first step after disassembly is stripping off the old Poly coat. This can sometimes be a large pain in the butt even for aircraft paint stripper. I have found that a few days covered and soaked in Acetone will speed this process along. Prior to the stripper application pictured here the slide, frame and the rest of the parts were in a large plastic container full of Acetone left to soak for a few days.

[SPO1SHADOW]

This gun was treated poorly and for that reason was a good buy. Here is the barrel which I will be repairing rather than purchasing a new one. I will cut the barrel back even with the front of the slide and then put an 11 degree muzzle crown back on the flat face.

[SPO1SHADOW]

So the old finish is coming off now in big patches and is compromised enough to now be easily carded off with a stainless brush. Once you get the Poly Coat off you are faced with the gray metal underneath. This gray treatment will resist rust or bluing so it must be removed to a depth that the metal will accept a finish. Notice the difference between bare metal and the dull gray finish in the last picture. There is a lot of rust and scratches hidden under the original finish that will require draw filing. The real work now begins.







I managed to get all the pitting out of the right side of the frame and keep all the lines sharp and the writing intact.

[DenStinett]

It's really starting to look good SP01

OH, by the way....That's not just a "Pre B", it's really a CZ75 Transitional

[Ciph3r]

I cringe to think that someone would do this to a gun in the first place. Good luck on your repairs, post pics when it's done?

[SPO1SHADOW]

Well, I have spent the whole day on this thing. My fingers are sore and I am worn out so I think it's time to quit for the night. I have all of the pitting filed out of both sides of the frame and the slide and managed to keep all of the stamping nice, clean and readable. All that is left before the bluing starts is the final polish and a few details on the smaller parts. I appreciate the encouragement and hope you had a great Christmas Day, I know I did doing exactly what I wanted for a change.

[cntrydawwwg]

Looking great SP01! If you get a chance, I'd like more info on how you removed the pitting. Tools, process, etc.

[RhodyCZ]

Very nice job.

[SPO1SHADOW]

Looking great SP01! If you get a chance, I'd like more info on how you removed the pitting. Tools, process, etc.

Draw filing can be a tedious process at best. I use a 12 inch file purchased from Brownell's with a wooden handle on one end and use 2 fingers on the other end. The file is placed across the flat surface of the slide or frame at an angle and drawn back to you. Always use a brand new, sharp file, never apply a lot of pressure and you must keep the file parallel to the surface. Work slowly and try to take an even amount while at the same time blending your file strokes into the metal. I usually coat the flats of the metal with a black marker which will not only show you where you are but also will show you where the low spots are. Always try not to file off the stamped writing in the metal and especially the serial numbers. I don't know of a quicker way to remove small pits and imperfections on auto pistols and still keep all the lines of the gun looking sharp. When you are very close to removing the damage and also making the sides perfectly flat switch to some 80 grit sandpaper on the file and flat file in the other direction or across the draw filing until all the filing marks have been removed. Wrap the sandpaper tightly on the file and keep your strokes parallel to the surface until the file marks are gone. If you are going to hot blue the gun you will want to keep doing this with finer paper until all the sanding marks are gone and you reach a high gloss polish. For rust bluing you can stop at 400 grit. 

[Rhino]

When you polish it don't go any finer than 320 grit, it needs to be rough enough to get a good even blue. It will be nice if you take your time. It may take two to three weeks depending how dark you want it but it will be nice. Boil in water, apply solution, allow it to rust for 24 hours until it is a nice orange, boil in water until it is a black oxide, card off the gun, rinse & repeat. It is a long labor intensive job but I did a S&W model 19 and it turned out amazing.

[cntrydawwwg]

Very cool. Thanks for the info guys.
    Merry Christmas

[Rhino]

SP01, are you going to undercut the trigger guard and the beaver tail a little bit while it is stripped down?

[SPO1SHADOW]

Yes, I will do both. I have CGW sights to install along with all new internals with the polishing, extended firing pin and springs for the action.

[Flatlander01]

Love the work you're doing,  looks like a Christmas miracle to me.  Can't wait to see the finished product.