Ideas for My Practice Steel Targets?

[1SOW]

I 'make' faux Steel Plates/plate racks and poppers out of the White Sides of USPSA targets doubled up using wood glue  and cut to shape with a scroll saw.

My target stands for the USPSA targets are 1x2 posts set in  1x2 bases made like skis.  I slot the top of these posts so they hold the faux plates like a plate rack.
I can tape the holes and reuse these many times and a surprising number of hits.  With three stands I have 5 plates and a popper clamped on a cross brace down low.  It LOOKS just like a plate rack for practice.  I make Circles, Triangles, Squares and more of various sizes.

I've been trying to figure a cheap/practical way to make the 'plates' tilt back a few inches and then come back upright after being hit.  The bullet hits on doubled up thin cardboard are not going to give much impact,  but with the right tilt and counterbalance it may work enough to SEE the plate tilt backwards on a fast run with the CZ.

One idea:  A wood socket to fit the tops of the 1x2s with a short length of 1x2 sticking up from the socket.  This short 1x2 would be cut in half and reattached together using a small hinge with a stop,  so the top of a plate would tip back about 3" .  The top of this piece would be slotted to hold the various plates.   To bring it back upright, I'm going to try a minimum counterweight to let gravity move it back up to close the hinge/verticle.   

**The hitch in this idea depends on the bullet impacting the cardboard plates firmly enough to push them backwards / tilt.   Only non-metallic materials can be used,  but I'll cheat a  bit with the counterweight set well below the targets.  A small thin steel arm that's easily adjustable like a cam, adjusted just heavy enough eccentric forward to  the bring the plates back upright. 

I know, I know too much time on my hands,  but it would be slick IF I can make it work ---especially at little or no cost and fast to set up at the range.  I have the materials on hand.

Any other suggestions for a practical way to show movement when the cardboard 'plates' are hit?

Pic of what I have 'now'.

[2morechains]

Interesting.  I don't have any suggestion for how you can make your "plates" move, but I applaud your ingenuity. 

I purchased a MGM AR500 steel challenge plate/hanger/stand a couple of years ago and to be honest between that one plate and three target stands I can setup most drills that I need to.  My club also has plate racks available for members, so I have that to work with as well...

MGM makes some interesting targets for practice as well as matches.  The SC target IMO is one of the better buys out there and easily transported.  I thought about buying one or two more, but to be honest the one plate seems to meet most of my practice needs. 

[1SOW]

2morechains, thanks,  but I shoot at a small public range,  usually alone.  Hauling and setting up plates/steel is more than I can handle in the time I have to shoot.

I shot 170 rds  this morning..  Took maybe 7-8 minutes to set up at about 12 yards.
I get the practice without the weight an time needed for set-up. I can carry 3 stands with targets and 3 bases all at the same time.  I tape when someone else calls for a safe range. 

I'll make them move enough to see......maybe.  😀

[Wahoo1 again]

Maybe a layer of dense closed sell foam between 2 sheets of 1/4 inch plywood or maybe between 2 aluminum pie plates?

[painter]

I have an idea which will keep it light, but might add too much cost. How about a layer of kevlar fabric to absorb some bullet energy?

You can buy a 3' x 5' piece for $20 delivered on ebay. If it were me I'd cut 6" squares and use some fiberglass resin to stick it to the back of the paper plates.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1500-DENIER-60-W-CAMO-GREEN-RESIN-COATED-KEVLAR-PARA-ARAMID-SYNTHETIC-FABRIC-/301857111560

For under 40 cents apiece I think it would give you enough resistance to show the movement, if you hit the part of the plate with the fabric, you're looking for. I don't know how many bullets it would take to become useless.

Just a thought.

[1SOW]

Wahoo,  I think wood 'woodn't' last through one practice session.  The cardboard lasts through four or five sessions at least.  Wood has become very expensive to say the least,  especially plywood.
That would add enough resistance to tip though.

Painter,  that's a good idea but wonder how it'll hold up.  hmm,  I'll keep that in mind.

I've made one crude model holder with the lightest 1x2 I have.  I'll test it next Tues.,  my next practice.
It took more counterweight to bring it back upright than I expected .  IThe cardboard probably won't have enough resistance to move them reliably,  but I'll give it a. try.

When I shoot the USPSA targets,  I seldom hit lower than the A-zone,  so these "plates"  and poppers are free + minor glue cost.
No, I didn't say I never miss the A zone.  😁

[Bodene]

Maybe use thin rubber tubing from the base to the plates? Or maybe straws or tubing as a pivot point on the targets and rubber bands to hold them forward? - Bodene

[1SOW]

I like the rubber idea in place of the hinges.  It adds a 'spring back" without as much weight from the counter balance.
Again,  bullet impact force is key.  Tests will show if it can work.

Yeah,  I'm retired.  ?

[1SOW]

Bodene,  I happened to have an old rubber innertube from my mountain bike.

That tube would just squeeze over a 1x2  and across the small hinge I put on it for tilt.  With a little trimmimg it really seems to work well without any counterweight at all.  It may work TOO well,  but cutting a slot to reduce the strength in the front that pulls the plate back upright should let the plate move easier.

Fast, easy and free.     Excellent idea.  Thanks

Now for the bullet impact test next Tues..  If needed,  I'll have a couple extra layers of cardboard and tape on hand to see if that helps bounce it back farther.

[Bodene]

All I had was the beginning of an idea, glad to see you were able to do something with it.     Thanks for posting the pictures. I'm curious to hear  how the test goes. - Bodene

[1SOW]

Follow-up:

I made two.  It didn't work.   They didn't even flinch with 3 layers of cardboard and glue.  Tapping with a pencil eraser moved them visibly.  Shooting with 124 JHPs didn't budge them at all.

[Bodene]

That stinks. I was hoping it would work for you. What I was originally thinking with the tubing was two pieces of tubing like some gas line or something similar a few inches long, connecting two horizontal pieces of wood. One being the base the other holding the target. Depending on the length and thickness of the tubing it might give it some flex. That or some really light springs. The only other thing I can think of would be to use some of those self healing targets as they do offer some resistance. Only thing is they aren't real cheap. I can shoot steel on my property but I might have to try myself just for the challenge of coming up with something that will work. Good luck! - Bodene

[wdbutcher]

I've used some spring loaded door hinges that might work. The spring inside the hinge makes it work like a door closer. The ones I've used can be adjusted for tension. You can set them with as much or as little tension as you want. I think that this might work for your targets. I wish my work week didn't start tomorrow. I'd like to do some experimenting. I'll try to send you some information tomorrow after work. Good luck!

[1SOW]

I know the hinge/spring tension isn't the problem.  The lack of resistance by layers of cardboard and glue doesn't provide enough resistance to push the target back. if it was standing balanced forward in a "V" slot (loose),  I don't think it would move with a 9mm bullet strike.

Other materials some have suggested and  I've thought of,  are not worth the money and necessary frequent replacements.

Would be useful  if a cheap durable idea would 'spring' up.

[Bodene]

Cut sections from a car tire behind your cardboard targets might add enough resistance and last a while. Plus they are everywhere and wouldn't cost anything other than the time to cut them. - Bodene