Author Topic: CZ 75 BD COMPACT BUILD  (Read 36476 times)

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Offline Tok36

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Re: CZ 75 BD COMPACT BUILD
« Reply #75 on: June 07, 2017, 10:24:54 AM »
Thank you for all of the pics and information SPO1SHADOW. This truly interesting and it looks great too.
Will work for CZ pics! (including but not limited to all CZ clones)

SPO1SHADOW

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Re: CZ 75 BD COMPACT BUILD
« Reply #76 on: June 07, 2017, 09:27:24 PM »
I let the frame and slide soak overnight in boiled linseed oil and got home a little early today so I decided to put on the EZ 9/40 sights and the 10X bushing from CGW's. First I needed to clean up my padded vise jaws and put on a few coats of Frog tape to keep from scratching up the new blue job. So I scrubbed all the grease, grime and metal bits off of the padded jaws and put on a few strips of tape for a little extra protection.







The rear sight would not even begin to go into the dovetail so out comes the 60 degree triangular sight file. 3 or 4 strokes at a time until the sight would start into the dovetail and then a few more just until the sight would start by hand.







A few strips of Frog tape on the aluminum punch will stop the transfer of aluminum from the punch to the sight. I don't know what we did before they invented the lime green tape but it sure comes in handy when working on firearms.



With the rear sight driven firmly into place I started on the FO front which also did not want to go into the dovetail. I use a sheet of 320 grit paper on a flat surface and hold the sight level while working it back and forth to remove a slight amount of metal from the bottom of the front sight until it will just start into the dove tail. Once it will start straight and level by hand it will drive straight in using the poly tipped punch that comes with the sight set.





Your front sight should look like this, just started by hand. If you try to force it in the dovetail straight out of the package you may wind up with a cocked and damaged sight. It should not be a sloppy fit but it needs to be able to start level and straight and be driven into place with some resistance.



Before driving the front sight home I installed the 10X bushing. I aligned the cross groove and using a piece of hard wood drove the bushing into place.



Notice the slight misalignment through the sight pin hole. With the bushing driven in as far as it would go there was just enough interference to keep the front sight pin from going in without deforming.



After installing the front sight I used a properly sized drill bit to clean up the hole and make everything line up. Now the front sight pin can be driven in to snugly hold the bushing and front sight in place.



The front sight fits nice and snug and sits perfectly level in the dovetail.



The sights are done and so am I tonight. More to come.



« Last Edit: June 07, 2017, 09:41:48 PM by SPO1SHADOW »

Offline cntrydawwwg

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Re: CZ 75 BD COMPACT BUILD
« Reply #77 on: June 07, 2017, 10:10:47 PM »
Sp01shadow, thanks again for taking the time. Seeing the pics, and the blow by blow steps are much appreciated.
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Offline Scarlett Pistol

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Re: CZ 75 BD COMPACT BUILD
« Reply #78 on: June 08, 2017, 08:59:17 AM »
Where'd you get this 60 degree triangle sight file? Do you have a link or a picture? This is another incredible thread!
"In God I trust. All others must supply data."

Offline cyberfish2

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Re: CZ 75 BD COMPACT BUILD
« Reply #79 on: June 08, 2017, 11:45:39 AM »
Where'd you get this 60 degree triangle sight file? Do you have a link or a picture? This is another incredible thread!
These fine tooth triangular files are jewelers files, search eBay. Buy the best quality ones you can find and they will last forever.
Great post on the rebuild; should be a sticky thread. How many hours did it take?
CZ-83, CZ-75D PCR, finally, a CZ Rami 9mm
Sure, I'd like to be young again, if it didn't come with such a big dose of stupid.

Offline smokerheat

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Re: CZ 75 BD COMPACT BUILD
« Reply #80 on: June 08, 2017, 02:17:46 PM »
Looks great. nice job man

SPO1SHADOW

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Re: CZ 75 BD COMPACT BUILD
« Reply #81 on: June 08, 2017, 07:37:17 PM »
Where'd you get this 60 degree triangle sight file? Do you have a link or a picture? This is another incredible thread!

You can buy this one that only has one cutting side and 2 smooth sides to keep you from marring the underside of the sight.
https://dawsonprecision.com/dawson-precision-sight-file/

Or this one which is the same file and use a sanding drum to smooth 2 sides of it up and leave one cutting side. They are both 60 degree files. I have both and each one works as good as the other.
https://www.grainger.com/product/5LZ79&AL!2966!3!166596380552!!!g!71851346599!?gclid=Cj0KEQjw6-PJBRCO_br1qoOB4LABEiQAEkqcVQtrMSy6dB0tKwBoNLYrHtybeBPUAAoLP3Yam-QTmZcaAgMi8P8HAQ&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA?campaignid=719693433&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!166596380552!!!g!71851346599!&ef_id=WEd7oAAABU1vSZnk:20170608234113:s
« Last Edit: June 08, 2017, 07:42:30 PM by SPO1SHADOW »

Offline Scarlett Pistol

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Re: CZ 75 BD COMPACT BUILD
« Reply #82 on: June 08, 2017, 07:45:04 PM »
Where'd you get this 60 degree triangle sight file? Do you have a link or a picture? This is another incredible thread!

You can buy this one that only has one cutting side and 2 smooth sides to keep you from marring the underside of the sight.
https://dawsonprecision.com/dawson-precision-sight-file/

Or this one which is the same file and use a sanding drum to smooth 2 sides of it up and leave one cutting side. They are both 60 degree files. I have both and each one works as good as the other.
https://www.grainger.com/product/5LZ79&AL!2966!3!166596380552!!!g!71851346599!?gclid=Cj0KEQjw6-PJBRCO_br1qoOB4LABEiQAEkqcVQtrMSy6dB0tKwBoNLYrHtybeBPUAAoLP3Yam-QTmZcaAgMi8P8HAQ&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA?campaignid=719693433&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!166596380552!!!g!71851346599!&ef_id=WEd7oAAABU1vSZnk:20170608234113:s
Thanks!

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SPO1SHADOW

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Re: CZ 75 BD COMPACT BUILD
« Reply #83 on: June 08, 2017, 07:47:36 PM »
Where'd you get this 60 degree triangle sight file? Do you have a link or a picture? This is another incredible thread!
These fine tooth triangular files are jewelers files, search eBay. Buy the best quality ones you can find and they will last forever.
Great post on the rebuild; should be a sticky thread. How many hours did it take?

I have 20 hours in it so far and about 10 to go to finish.

Offline Tok36

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Re: CZ 75 BD COMPACT BUILD
« Reply #84 on: June 09, 2017, 12:26:25 PM »
Why is there tape on the drill bit that you drilled the sight hole with? Is it to limit the depth?
Will work for CZ pics! (including but not limited to all CZ clones)

SPO1SHADOW

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Re: CZ 75 BD COMPACT BUILD
« Reply #85 on: June 09, 2017, 05:59:11 PM »
Yes, it keeps the drill from marring the finish when it pops through on the other side. Sometimes the bit will grab and pull the drill into the slide. The tape limits the travel and makes for a soft landing in the pin hole pit.
« Last Edit: June 09, 2017, 09:33:01 PM by SPO1SHADOW »

SPO1SHADOW

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Re: CZ 75 BD COMPACT BUILD
« Reply #86 on: June 10, 2017, 09:05:05 AM »
Installing the Pro Package is next. I will replace the razor sharp stock trigger and the will be fitting a T2 disco. These are the factory parts I will be re-using, everything else will be Cajun Spice.


SPO1SHADOW

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Re: CZ 75 BD COMPACT BUILD
« Reply #87 on: June 10, 2017, 11:40:41 AM »
I usually spend a lot of time on the trigger bar. This is the largest moving part so it has some areas that need to be addressed. I start by using some fine sand paper, as you remove the black oxide coating it reveals lots of buggers and machine marks. I use a fine stone on the trigger pin tang and make sure it is nice and flat with no puckered edges that will rub against the trigger as it moves. Rough edges and bumps are what gives the gritty feeling when you pull the trigger through in double action. I do not use a stone on any other area unless there is some damage or a ding that needs to be corrected. You do not want to remove the machine marks but just make them very slick so everything moves freely.



After inspecting and rubbing over the contact areas with the fine paper I use a moto tool and polishing compound to polish the entire trigger bar. I don't reshape anything or remove more than a minute amount of metal as any polishing will do. You don't want to alter the shape or the sharp corner off of anything. Moto tools get a bad name because users go a little crazy with them and over polish or remove metal instead of just polishing a surface. Used correctly they do a very nice job of getting rid of the roughness without altering the original shape which is what we are after here. Notice the machine marks are still in the sides of the trigger bar, the machine marks will hold lubricant and also lessen the area of contact to the frame. Don't try to get rid of them just smooth them up.



A much overlooked area is the trigger pin hole. These can be rough inside and need a little help. I roll up some fine paper, push it through the hole, grab both ends and give the trigger bar a spin, you can feel the difference as soon as the rough edges go away.





The top bumps that move against the slide and the front portion that slides under the sear cage needs to be slick if you want that glass smooth double action feel.



The front of the trigger bar serves as the reset point, the double action sear and holds the disco as it move back and forth inside the frame. Again, just polish and especially in this area don't remove metal or break the sharp lines.



Don't forget to polish in the notch that the disco rides in. They make very small polishing fobs that fit into the area. And also the 2 grooves that the trigger bar spring rides in. I usually use the very then Dremel cut off wheels and by hand only define the spring grooves before polishing them. This will help keep the spring in the grooves.

« Last Edit: June 10, 2017, 11:47:09 AM by SPO1SHADOW »

Offline cyberfish2

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Re: CZ 75 BD COMPACT BUILD
« Reply #88 on: June 10, 2017, 01:03:12 PM »
I usually spend a lot of time on the trigger bar. This is the largest moving part so it has some areas that need to be addressed. I start by using some fine sand paper, as you remove the black oxide coating it reveals lots of buggers and machine marks. I use a fine stone on the trigger pin tang and make sure it is nice and flat with no puckered edges that will rub against the trigger as it moves. Rough edges and bumps are what gives the gritty feeling when you pull the trigger through in double action. I do not use a stone on any other area unless there is some damage or a ding that needs to be corrected. You do not want to remove the machine marks but just make them very slick so everything moves freely.



After inspecting and rubbing over the contact areas with the fine paper I use a moto tool and polishing compound to polish the entire trigger bar. I don't reshape anything or remove more than a minute amount of metal as any polishing will do. You don't want to alter the shape or the sharp corner off of anything. Moto tools get a bad name because users go a little crazy with them and over polish or remove metal instead of just polishing a surface. Used correctly they do a very nice job of getting rid of the roughness without altering the original shape which is what we are after here. Notice the machine marks are still in the sides of the trigger bar, the machine marks will hold lubricant and also lessen the area of contact to the frame. Don't try to get rid of them just smooth them up.



A much overlooked area is the trigger pin hole. These can be rough inside and need a little help. I roll up some fine paper, push it through the hole, grab both ends and give the trigger bar a spin, you can feel the difference as soon as the rough edges go away.





The top bumps that move against the slide and the front portion that slides under the sear cage needs to be slick if you want that glass smooth double action feel.



The front of the trigger bar serves as the reset point, the double action sear and holds the disco as it move back and forth inside the frame. Again, just polish and especially in this area don't remove metal or break the sharp lines.



Don't forget to polish in the notch that the disco rides in. They make very small polishing fobs that fit into the area. And also the 2 grooves that the trigger bar spring rides in. I usually use the very then Dremel cut off wheels and by hand only define the spring grooves before polishing them. This will help keep the spring in the grooves.


As I continue to follow these great, highly detailed, pictures and descriptions, I tend to forget that you are restoring an older gun. These are the kinds of tips I can use to make any of my much newer CZ's run better. You are truly one of the old school craftsmen who have the skills, patience, pride, and time to do the hand work. Bit of a rare breed these days, I think.  :) :)
CZ-83, CZ-75D PCR, finally, a CZ Rami 9mm
Sure, I'd like to be young again, if it didn't come with such a big dose of stupid.

SPO1SHADOW

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Re: CZ 75 BD COMPACT BUILD
« Reply #89 on: June 10, 2017, 01:03:45 PM »
Next on the list that needs some attention is the hammer strut. This one, as others I have had is slightly bent. After heating and straightening it will work nicely. This is another one of those stamped steel parts that are curved up on one side and not finely finished.



As you can see there are chatter marks on the corners of the hammer strut where it contacts the main spring. This is another area that will cause the double action to feel gritty and you can actually feel the strut chattering as it goes down through the main spring.



After I straightened it up I stoned the sides on the hammer end nice and flat on both sides.




Don't forget the clean up the hole for the hammer pin while you are working this piece over. Some paper rolled up and spun through the hole works fine to smooth out the stamped through hole.



Each of the 4 corners on the spring side of the strut need to be sanded or stoned smooth and then polished to a high luster.



When you are finished it is really hard to tell this is not a fully machined part. All of the curved and pushed up metal edges are gone and it's so slick you have a hard time holding on to it. I will also polish the inside of the hammer spring. This will give the ultimate glassy smooth double action pull.