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Where'd you get this 60 degree triangle sight file? Do you have a link or a picture? This is another incredible thread!
Quote from: Scarlett Pistol on June 08, 2017, 08:59:17 AMWhere'd you get this 60 degree triangle sight file? Do you have a link or a picture? This is another incredible thread!You can buy this one that only has one cutting side and 2 smooth sides to keep you from marring the underside of the sight.https://dawsonprecision.com/dawson-precision-sight-file/Or this one which is the same file and use a sanding drum to smooth 2 sides of it up and leave one cutting side. They are both 60 degree files. I have both and each one works as good as the other.https://www.grainger.com/product/5LZ79&AL!2966!3!166596380552!!!g!71851346599!?gclid=Cj0KEQjw6-PJBRCO_br1qoOB4LABEiQAEkqcVQtrMSy6dB0tKwBoNLYrHtybeBPUAAoLP3Yam-QTmZcaAgMi8P8HAQ&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA?campaignid=719693433&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!166596380552!!!g!71851346599!&ef_id=WEd7oAAABU1vSZnk:20170608234113:s
Quote from: Scarlett Pistol on June 08, 2017, 08:59:17 AMWhere'd you get this 60 degree triangle sight file? Do you have a link or a picture? This is another incredible thread!These fine tooth triangular files are jewelers files, search eBay. Buy the best quality ones you can find and they will last forever. Great post on the rebuild; should be a sticky thread. How many hours did it take?
I usually spend a lot of time on the trigger bar. This is the largest moving part so it has some areas that need to be addressed. I start by using some fine sand paper, as you remove the black oxide coating it reveals lots of buggers and machine marks. I use a fine stone on the trigger pin tang and make sure it is nice and flat with no puckered edges that will rub against the trigger as it moves. Rough edges and bumps are what gives the gritty feeling when you pull the trigger through in double action. I do not use a stone on any other area unless there is some damage or a ding that needs to be corrected. You do not want to remove the machine marks but just make them very slick so everything moves freely.After inspecting and rubbing over the contact areas with the fine paper I use a moto tool and polishing compound to polish the entire trigger bar. I don't reshape anything or remove more than a minute amount of metal as any polishing will do. You don't want to alter the shape or the sharp corner off of anything. Moto tools get a bad name because users go a little crazy with them and over polish or remove metal instead of just polishing a surface. Used correctly they do a very nice job of getting rid of the roughness without altering the original shape which is what we are after here. Notice the machine marks are still in the sides of the trigger bar, the machine marks will hold lubricant and also lessen the area of contact to the frame. Don't try to get rid of them just smooth them up.A much overlooked area is the trigger pin hole. These can be rough inside and need a little help. I roll up some fine paper, push it through the hole, grab both ends and give the trigger bar a spin, you can feel the difference as soon as the rough edges go away.The top bumps that move against the slide and the front portion that slides under the sear cage needs to be slick if you want that glass smooth double action feel.The front of the trigger bar serves as the reset point, the double action sear and holds the disco as it move back and forth inside the frame. Again, just polish and especially in this area don't remove metal or break the sharp lines.Don't forget to polish in the notch that the disco rides in. They make very small polishing fobs that fit into the area. And also the 2 grooves that the trigger bar spring rides in. I usually use the very then Dremel cut off wheels and by hand only define the spring grooves before polishing them. This will help keep the spring in the grooves.
