The safety pad on the shaft of the safety may, or may not be an issue.
When I replaced the hammer on my CZ 75 Compact I (really, seriously) had that safety in/out of the frame about 24 times before I had removed enough metal to get it to work. The adjustable sear from CGW would really have sped that up a lot. I can't say whether or not the adjustable sear would fit the TS or not (probably not, the width of the sear is different and even though there is a spacer available (if you remove the firing pin block lifting lever on the other CZ's equipped with that) it still may not work out right.
When I replaced the left side safety (the one with the pad on the shaft) in my CZ TS .40 S&W the only "fitting" that had to be done was the end of the shaft where it goes through the right side safety.
Sometimes you eat the bear, sometimes the bear eats you. One of those things.
When you get the new safety, go ahead and take right side safety out, too, and do your left side shaft to right side safety lever fitting/filing with both pieces outside the gun. Once the left side safety lever fits, install the right side safety.
Then you'll have to put the sear cage back in, too. Hey, watch those two small springs in the back of the sear cage. Don't lose them, they keep forward pressure on the sear cage to eliminate any movement of the sear cage that can affect sear to trigger engagement (I thought mine were extremely even broken pieces of a spring and probably threw them away). It took some cutting/fitting of another spring to get two uniform pieces to replace them.
You'll have to file/test fit the safety to the sear with the sear cage and safety installed in the frame.
That "bump" that may need to be filed/fitted is in this picture. While this is a CZ 75 the idea is the same. See the coil spring around the sear pin (in the sear cage)? The "bump" is that small piece, on the safety shaft. The little finger that stick out of the sear cage towards the left is the sear. The bump, right in front of the sear has to rotate under that finger to lock the sear in place when you move the safety lever to the SAFE position. If it won't rotate under the sear/finger, it's got to be filed/fitted down till it does - but you have to be careful not to remove too much metal or it won't lock the sear and the pistol can fire even when the lever is in the SAFE position.
Edited to take advantage another opportunity to fix the photobucket mess.
The red arrow points to the raised portion, or cam, on the left side safety shaft. It has to fit under the finger that sticks forward off the sear (green arrow) in order to lock the sear and keep the sear from releasing the hammer when the trigger is pulled. That cam has to rotate under the sear arm. If it won't, you have to slowly remove metal from that cam on the safety shaft. Lots of removal (safety from the frame, metal removal from the cam area, replacement of the safety into the frame/sear cage and testing operation - repeated over and over till you get it right. My first time took (IIRC) 24 times to get it right.
As people say, purchase installation of CGW's adjustable sear makes it all go faster (done that one time, too - and just ordered another one from CGW for another project.)
