Noobs SAO adventure and tips

[newageroman]

If you are talking about the ruger pistols (which I love, and was my first and favorite), I am right there with ya. I made a takedown tool out of wire looped into a buttsplice connector that worked well. Then I saw someone use the mag lips to do it and although I dont condone that behavior I can now use just about anything onhand and luckily my thumbnail will open my one and only mk II slabside. I will note that I did have a blue Volquartsen frame/lower, and marred the finish by using a hard piece of metal to open the mainspring. *noted, don't do that*

[eastman]

If you are talking about the ruger pistols (which I love, and was my first and favorite), I am right there with ya. I made a takedown tool out of wire looped into a buttsplice connector that worked well. Then I saw someone use the mag lips to do it and although I dont condone that behavior I can now use just about anything onhand and luckily my thumbnail will open my one and only mk II slabside. I will note that I did have a blue Volquartsen frame/lower, and marred the finish by using a hard piece of metal to open the mainspring. *noted, don't do that*

I use a vinyl coated paperclip on my MkII

[newageroman]

Ahh, thanks, now I'll have something to do at the office tomorrow! coated paperclips sound like the perfect tool.

[eastman]

Ahh, thanks, now I'll have something to do at the office tomorrow! coated paperclips sound like the perfect tool.

I've been using the same red and white striped paperclip (from a vendor at a scientific conference / trade show) for the last 20 years.

[redlightrich]

Not to drift too far from the original post, the wooden tool that I made reinstalled the actual mainspring and cup and lever and ball bearing back into the mainspring housing and held it so the retaining pin could be re-installed, this is close to impossible without some sort of jig or 5 hands. Not to remove the housing from the grip frame. For that, almost anything will work. Yes a paperclip works well.

I checked the CZ site, and they offer sear cages in number 2 thru number 5. I am not certain as the description says very little, except that the cage is marked on the back with a number. My guess is different size or shape ejectors is why there are 4 different cages available.

Let us know how you make out with the ejection issue

Happy Thanksgiving to all!!!!!

Rich

[newageroman]

Well, I solved one problem and now stovepipe is back. Not really stovepipe per say, but FTE - brass gets stuck on the extractor, doesn't eject, slide moves forward and empty case keeps the next round from feeding - empty case ends up jammed in the chamber.

This was happening before, seemed to be gone, and is not back. It might be ammo related, I was using all Remington UMC 9mm.
I will be working up a suitable handload soon, just need to order dies (After Santa clause goes off an hibernates for the season).

The good news is that I still love the LOK Thin grips. Also last time to the range I was having some issues with the trigger not activating the sear/hammer. I backed out the overtravel adjustment on the trigger about a 1/2 turn and had none of those issues this range trip.

I'm trying to get this thing reliable enough to start USPSA. If it happens again, I will check the ejector and springs like was mentioned.

[M1A4ME]

Sorry to hear that.  I've not yet had an extractor/ejection issue with a CZ yet, so I can't help you there.

It does seem like if the extractor can pull the case out of the chamber the ejector should knock it out of the slide/ejection port and onto the ground/table beside you.

Does the slide move freely to the rear?  Does it do this with higher powered ammo?  The UMC is target ammo, isn't it?  Might not have the oomph required to operate everything correctly till the pistol is broken in well and everything loosens up some.

[newageroman]

slide rides smooth. This is a used gun. I'm gonna try different ammo and troubleshoot from there.