First try at P07 mods wore me out

[f100owner]

Received some parts from the very responsive folks at Cajun Gun Works including new set of lower sights to replace my high sights, along with new hammer, sear spring, trigger return spring and the DA roller bearing.
Viewed lots of videos before hand and during.
Everything was going OK, until I tried to get the trigger out. It took significant effort to get it out (yes the pin was removed), but it came (think it was sticking in the mainspring). Putting it back was about as bad, nothing like the videos I was watching.
All functions seem OK. Trigger seems lighter, smoother in SA mode. Have not installed the new sights (fiber optic sight set) or the trigger return spring yet.
Going to tear it down again tonight and see  if things go smoother. Don't like the amount of pressure I had to use to hold down the hammer while inserting the pin.
as to the sights, read a reference to where I might have to use a torch to get the front sight off. Not really looking forward to that prospect.

[Winkel]

For the hammer, make sure you have the hammer spring retainer plug out and the pressure off that spring.
A slave pin for the trigger is a must.

[Craig M Arnold]

I've changed out 5 or 6 front sights on P07s and P10s. No torch needed. You might have to heat up the set screw with a soldering iron to loosen the locktite. However, I've never even had to do that. All have came out by unscrewing the set screw with an hex wrench and then taping out the sight with a nylon punch. It really helps if you have access to a vice. Pad it so you don't scratch your slide.

As Winkel mentioned above, remove your hammer spring plug and spring. Then there is absolutely no pressure on the hammer. Also as mention above, use a slave pin for the TRS installation. That will make your life a lot easier.

Just take your time and once you get all the parts installed, you'll be amazed at how nice your P07 trigger will be.

Best of luck.
 

[M1A4ME]

I've recently replaced the trigger return spring in both of my P09's and the P07.

Use that slave pin.  The trigger is in your hand/fingers, you put the spring in place, push the slave pen through (I used a cut off toothpick - same piece for all three jobs) and set the trigger down in place (don't forget to put the trigger bar back on it.)  The slave pin must be flush with the outside of the trigger on both side to go into place.  As you push the trigger pin back in it will push the slave pin out and the slave pin holds the trigger return spring in place as the trigger pin pushes it out through the opposite side.

The front sights came off pretty easy on mine.  A rubber (hard polymer tipped) hammer used to knock it forward and out of the slide worked on one (kind of chewed up the corner of the hammer).  One time I put the back of the front sight on the corner of my work bench and whacked the front of the slide with the soft faced hammer.  Took a couple/three whacks and it pushed the front sight out of the slide (put a mark or two on the plywood, but it's a work bench).

[f100owner]

For the hammer, make sure you have the hammer spring retainer plug out and the pressure off that spring.
A slave pin for the trigger is a must.

I don't have the drawing before me, but I am guessing that is the plug behind the base of the magazine. The one that holds the spring that has been making it a real challenge for me. Not a single video I have used has referenced this. But it makes sense.
For grins, last night tried the process again. Same challenges. Wish I had seen these posts then. Wife is irked. Got home, it was wet and rainy so I thought I would mess with the pistol and try it again. About an 1.5 hours later, was complete. We missed taco Tuesday (:
Would you take the hammer spring retainer plug out first thing and make it the last thing to install?
The spring that comes from just behind the trigger to the decocker  fell out on me last night. Took me a while to get it in place.
Saw a reference to a slave pin for replacing the TRS. Any suggestions for a  slave pin. I saw where it should be the length of the trigger width.
Will mess with the sights tonight (another rainy night in store) and I have a vice.
Thanks for the tips.

[M1A4ME]

The slave pin can't be any wider than the trigger itself is.  The purpose is to hold the trigger return spring in place (in the trigger) while you push/pull/hold the trigger and trigger bar in place while inserting the trigger pin from outside the frame.  The trigger pin will go into one of the holes in the frame and once you have the trigger lined up correctly the trigger pin will push on through the trigger/trigger return spring and push the slave pin out the far side of the frame.

[fflmike]

I use a piece of round toothpick or q-tip the same width as the trigger.  I also find it easier to push a punch thru to push out the slave pin and then work the regular pin in pushing out the punch.  Only reason is, you can use the punch to provide leverage for the spring, JMHO.

[fflmike]

I don't have the drawing before me, but I am guessing that is the plug behind the base of the magazine. The one that holds the spring that has been making it a real challenge for me. Not a single video I have used has referenced this. But it makes sense.

I use a pin punch to push it down with the hammer in the up position, while pushing the pin out with a small punch.  Put your body against the back of the gun to stabilize it.

[rch024]

For the hammer, make sure you have the hammer spring retainer plug out and the pressure off that spring.
A slave pin for the trigger is a must.

About the trigger pin, I used to use a slave pin on my 75's, but I misplaced mine one day and happened upon a method that works just as well for me. Can't remember where it was that I saw this, so I can't give proper credit but this is what you do:

Insert the trigger into the frame and put the pin in just far enough that it goes through one side of the frame and one side of the trigger (but doesn't stick out into the area where the spring sits.  Then you take a pair of needle nose pliers and hold the spring by the coil so that the legs of the spring are facing forward.  With one hand holding the pin, you insert the spring into the trigger with the pliers. When the hole in the spring matches up you push the pin in with your other hand.  Once it's most of the way in, it should retain the spring in case you need to tap it the rest of the way.

Hope this was clear enough.  Might try to make a video in the next few weeks that shows this since it can be such a frustrating task.

[f100owner]

Have you guys ran across a good P07 schematic with part names/numbers on it. Found exploded drawings of the P07, just not any with part names.

[fflmike]

Have you guys ran across a good P07 schematic with part names/numbers on it. Found exploded drawings of the P07, just not any with part names.

In the owners manual pages 12 and 15
http://cz-usa.com/hammer/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/cz_p-07_en.pdf

[f100owner]

Cool. Removed all of the pages but the drawing and part names and got what I wanted.

[DeanH1290]

For the hammer, make sure you have the hammer spring retainer plug out and the pressure off that spring.
A slave pin for the trigger is a must.

About the trigger pin, I used to use a slave pin on my 75's, but I misplaced mine one day and happened upon a method that works just as well for me. Can't remember where it was that I saw this, so I can't give proper credit but this is what you do:

Insert the trigger into the frame and put the pin in just far enough that it goes through one side of the frame and one side of the trigger (but doesn't stick out into the area where the spring sits.  Then you take a pair of needle nose pliers and hold the spring by the coil so that the legs of the spring are facing forward.  With one hand holding the pin, you insert the spring into the trigger with the pliers. When the hole in the spring matches up you push the pin in with your other hand.  Once it's most of the way in, it should retain the spring in case you need to tap it the rest of the way.

Hope this was clear enough.  Might try to make a video in the next few weeks that shows this since it can be such a frustrating task.

I actually had mine apart today and used small needle nose pliers like this and worked great, I didn't have anything to use as a slave pin.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[f100owner]

Completed most my initial upgrades this evening. Front site was pretty simple. However, I did not protect the top of the slide and my aluminum punch took some finish. I used some red loctite underneath it. The rear sight took a while to get centered. Of course the side of it shows some wear from drifting it.
Looking forward to trying the pistol out. Single action dry fires seem lighter and smoother.
Don't know if I will bother with the reduced pull trigger spring any time soon.

[fflmike]

Completed most my initial upgrades this evening. Front site was pretty simple. However, I did not protect the top of the slide and my aluminum punch took some finish. I used some red loctite underneath it. The rear sight took a while to get centered. Of course the side of it shows some wear from drifting it.
Looking forward to trying the pistol out. Single action dry fires seem lighter and smoother.
Don't know if I will bother with the reduced pull trigger spring any time soon.

Where's your sense of adventure?]