Looking for a recommendation for Precision Delta

[Pistolet]

Hi Everybody, I'm new here. I have been looking at several forums for tips on reloading and the CZ is by far the best forum I've come across, lots of good info and people are courteous and patient. I started reloading a couple of month ago with mixed results. Mostly with Titegroup and Berry's 124 gr round nose, got a couple of squibs that thankfully I noticed before firing the next round (I've reviewed my method of organization since).  I've loaded and shot about 800 rounds.
Then I experimented with 147 gr moly-coated and got a small Kaboom where the barrel did not explode but swelled up! I had to get a new one. I don't know why. It could be a squib or a double charge or a seating depth problem.
So I'm staying away from advanced loading techniques and as per recommendations I found on this forum I ordered Precision Delta 124 gr FMJ and bought some Hodgon HP38.
I have a few books, Lee, Lyman, Gun Guides, but none of them mention this particular bullet. I know that all FMJ's are not alike. Where should I start?

[Boris_LA]

PD FMJ 124gr IS very standard profile FMJ bullet. It can be loaded to most OAL. Many found that OAL 1.135-1.150" feed and shot reliable and accurate. Published load data for any 124gr FMJ bullet would be a good start, just start from the low end of the charging range.

[noylj]

KB:
1) Always look in the case for powder height before placing bullet on case.
For single-stage loading, I use a bench-mounted powder measure and I charge a case, look in the to verify powder height, and I immediately seat a bullet.
For progressive reloading, I use an RCBS Lock-Out die and I STILL visually inspect each case for powder height.
2) 9x19 has the greatest variation in cases, including case wall thickness. Some case walls are so thin that the bullet is not held under tension by the case and will get pushed into the case during feeding. I always push down on the seated bullet using thumb or finger pressure to be sure the bullet doesn't move. Any movement, I break the round down and trash the case. NOTE: taper crimping is NOT to hold the bullet, but just to remove the case mouth flare.
3) A barrel "swelling up," (usually referred to as "ringing the barrel") is caused by a barrel obstruction. Most likely a stuck bullet from a squib you missed and, for 9x19, the following round had to be a very weak round to ONLY ring the barrel. You're lucky.
4) PD has a great deal on blemished 115gn JHP

[1SOW]

FWIW:  As a new reloader,  I recommend you continue with the PD124 RN bullets over the  HP38/Win 231 ball powder.  After you've developed safe accurate loading procedures,   expand out to experiment with other plated and FMJ bullets.  Keep an accurate log of all the components and your loads  as well as notes about your shooting results with each load tested.
  At the risk of of repeating what you now know,  make SURE you're loading In the published load data's ,"safe range" of your powder choice. Some powders can easily be overloaded or even double loaded.  HP38 at 4.3 +/- GRS can't be double charged. Physically SEE every powder drop for every cartridge loaded.  This usually requires a small light shining directly into the case being loaded with powder. Many good methods can be found here for good lighting options using LEDs or other small.lights. this prevents a primer only squib.  Even with very little powder loaded,  the bullet should pass the barrel.
  Don't rush through loading your chosen loads.  Think about what every handle pull is doing.
Just like pistol shooting,   learn the safe loading basics first . 
 

[IDescribe]

Please describe in detail the method by which you lube your cases.

[Pistolet]

I just have a few books, here?s what I have found so far for Win231/HP38in the following books:

Lee modern reloading:                                                  125gr jacketed    1.069 OAL       2.8-3.3gr
complete reloading manual for the 9mm luger: Win 231   Win FMJ 124gr    1.1609 max     4.2-4.5gr
                                                                     HP38       125gr SIE FMJ     1.090 OAL      4.4-4.8gr
Reloading guide for pistols                                             125 gr sierra FMJ  1.090 OAL      4.4-4.8gr

Lyman doesn?t seem to have any data for this bullet.

That?s a lot of conflicting information with max loads varying  from 3.3 to 4.8 depending on the source.

OAL is not an issue for me as I don?t own a CZ, yet, (I hope you don?t hold that against me ),

[Pistolet]

Please describe in detail the method by which you lube your cases.

I don't use lube. I have been using the Lee classic Turret with carbide dies. I do clean my cases in plenty of dishwater and rinse a lot. should I still use lube?

[larryflew]

Sounds to me like you are doing due diligence regarding powder ranges int he books you have. This leaves the possibility that you missed seeing the level of powder in the one that went kaboom. Make sure you actually see the powder before placing the bullet.

[IDescribe]

YES, use case lube, even with carbide dies.

Hornady Oneshot works well.  I put a few hundred cases on a bath towel, spray them lightly, from a distance, then pick them up in the bath towel and tumble them like I'm polishing a bowling ball. Let dry overnight.

Your squib issue sounded like powder fouling to me, and I figured from too much case lube.  Obviously, that's not the case.  So my assumption now is that you are loading bullets into uncharged cases, and to get 3 in 800 rounds indicates a problem with your process.

You need to look into every case before seating the bullet to make sure a powder charge is there.   Your process now, wherever the lapse may be, is dangerous.

[Pistolet]

YES, use case lube, even with carbide dies.

Hornady Oneshot works well.  I put a few hundred cases on a bath towel, spray them lightly, from a distance, then pick them up in the bath towel and tumble them like I'm polishing a bowling ball. Let dry overnight.

Your squib issue sounded like powder fouling to me, and I figured from too much case lube.  Obviously, that's not the case.  So my assumption now is that you are loading bullets into uncharged cases, and to get 3 in 800 rounds indicates a problem with your process.

You need to look into every case before seating the bullet to make sure a powder charge is there.   Your process now, wherever the lapse may be, is dangerous.

I think I have figured out my squib issue, When I was making a ladder, I was disorganized and doing too many things at once, removing the shell from the press to weigh the powder using two different scales, sometimes having a load on each scale to try to go faster so it was easy to get mixed up. I am being much more methodical now.
 
I have a Lee resizing lubricant in a tube that came with the turret press kit, does that work too?

[Boris_LA]

I just have a few books, here?s what I have found so far for Win231/HP38in the following books:

Lee modern reloading:                                                  125gr jacketed    1.069 OAL       2.8-3.3gr
complete reloading manual for the 9mm luger: Win 231   Win FMJ 124gr    1.1609 max     4.2-4.5gr
                                                                     HP38       125gr SIE FMJ     1.090 OAL      4.4-4.8gr
Reloading guide for pistols                                             125 gr sierra FMJ  1.090 OAL      4.4-4.8gr

Lyman doesn?t seem to have any data for this bullet.

That?s a lot of conflicting information with max loads varying  from 3.3 to 4.8 depending on the source.

OAL is not an issue for me as I don?t own a CZ, yet, (I hope you don?t hold that against me ),

Look here http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/data/pistol
I have not had a spectacular results with W231/HP38 in 9mm. The best was with OAL 1.150" and HP38 at 4.3gr.
My results with Titegroup are much better.

[IDescribe]

The only time you should be measuring charges is when you are setting up the drop. NEVER empty a case while in production.

Still, and also, look into every case before seating a bullet.

[Pistolet]

The only time you should be measuring charges is when you are setting up the drop. NEVER empty a case while in production.

Still, and also, look into every case before seating a bullet.

I hear you!

[Pistolet]

I just have a few books, here?s what I have found so far for Win231/HP38in the following books:

Lee modern reloading:                                                  125gr jacketed    1.069 OAL       2.8-3.3gr
complete reloading manual for the 9mm luger: Win 231   Win FMJ 124gr    1.1609 max     4.2-4.5gr
                                                                     HP38       125gr SIE FMJ     1.090 OAL      4.4-4.8gr
Reloading guide for pistols                                             125 gr sierra FMJ  1.090 OAL      4.4-4.8gr

Lyman doesn?t seem to have any data for this bullet.

That?s a lot of conflicting information with max loads varying  from 3.3 to 4.8 depending on the source.

OAL is not an issue for me as I don?t own a CZ, yet, (I hope you don?t hold that against me ),

Look here http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/data/pistol
I have not had a spectacular results with W231/HP38 in 9mm. The best was with OAL 1.150" and HP38 at 4.3gr.
My results with Titegroup are much better.

So it seems like you are following the recipe for the 124 GR. BERB HBRN TP which is for a plated bullet rather than the one for the 125 GR. SIE FMJ which is an FMJ. But the 124gr precision Delta is a FMJ, I would have thought you would would have followed the recipe for 125 GR. SIE FMJ.

[M1A4ME]

I use an empty (several actually) plastic pistol ammo tray from a spent box of ammo for the bigger brass cases (.40, .45, .38, etc.)

For 9MM I have to use a standard case block like RCBS or Lyman sells.  You can put 50 pieces of brass in it and charge each one (till all 50 are charged with powder) and then use a small bright flashlight (or any light you can angle to shine into the cases) to check all of them for powder and to compare powder charge height/amount in the cases.  I can't pick up a very small difference in the amount of powder but enough difference to cause a squib or an double charged case is easy to see.

I don't use case lube on pistol cases when using carbide dies.  That's why I bought carbide dies.  Some people do, I never have.  I do run my brass through a vibratory cleaner with crushed walnut shell media and I've read that the powdery residue left on the brass acts as a lube in the resizing die.  I can't confirm that, I've just read it.

The advice about using powder you can't double charge is very good advice.

I also weigh check 10% of my powder charges prior to seating the bullets.  When I do the flashlight/powder charge visual check of the 50 cases I pick out any that look high (very seldom) of low (can be fairly often with some powders that don't measure well) and check the weight of the powder charge with the scale.  If it's good, I dump it back in the case and put the case back in the tray.  If it's off I dump the charge in the powder measure and then run another one into the case to compare with the light (to the other cases/charges).

Doing it my way makes me feel better about my reloads.  Is it a waste of time?  Not for me.  It makes me more confident that my reloads will do what I expect them to do.