Went to the range couple days ago and rented a 75 b to shoot and loved. Shot 10 other guns and I shot this the best. The sp01 is what I wanted it and they had one for sale but not rent so I held it. I like where the slide lock is a lot better. Not shooting it not sure of the balance differences loaded. However slow pulling the trigger on the sp01 I felt there was a lot of creep in the sa. Thee is a lot of threads on triggers but it gets confusing cause there is a lot of end goals so a lot of different ways. This would be a HD and range gun. A good trigger for me would be 9-10# da, and 3.5-4.5# sa with less creep and maybe a shorter reset. Does the hammer affect the rest and would the ghost hammer from cz do what I want for the creep? What would I need to do for the da/sa ppull weights? I don't need a competition trigger and was hoping to not spend 200.00+. Was hoping to keep it to 100.00 and just have general improvements. Will probably get the safety model. Does it freak anyone out manually dropping the hammer on this? TY
However slow pulling the trigger on the sp01 I felt there was a lot of creep in the sa.
1) SA Firing Pin Block pull:
There are two parts to the SA trigger pull. The first, which makes it long, is the part where the firing pin block is being raised. This is usually much lighter.
Polishing will go a long ways to make this part smooth. A lighter Firing Pin Block (FPB) spring from Cajun Gun Works makes this part of the pull so light it is not a factor for weight.
The reduce the reset and make the SA trigger pull shorter you can get a short reset kit for Cajun Gun Works. I think you can also just ask for their Short Reset Lifter Arm, but I can't remember if they require their firing pin for that part. If you give them a call they are super nice and helpful. I just can't remember because I have been removing the FPB system on most of my CZ's and if I don't I have been playing with creating a shorter reset with the OEM parts. That's more for me to have fun playing with the mechanical system and not something I am advising you do.
2) SA Sear and Hammer pull:
Then you hit a wall with more resistance. This is where the trigger is now engaging the sear (the mechanism that interacts with the hammer hooks). This part of the SA pull is obviously heavier.
This part of the SA pulled is improved with a new hammer. You can get the Cajun Gun Works Race Hammer or the CZ Custom Competition Hammer. Cajun Gun Works sells hammers with their adjustable sear. This would put your cost a little higher than you requested. If you don't get their adjustable sear you just have to fit an arm on the sear once the new hammer is installed. I have videos on fitting the sear and it isn't hard, it just takes a few passes witch checking. An additional benefit to the CGW adjustable sear is that it comes through hardened and smooth. The OEM sears can have tooling marks, especially on the sear face that interacts with the hammer hooks. You have to be ultra careful polishing that face because they aren't through hardened and you don't want to change the geometry. While I was getting into CZ's I was in college and on a real tight budget so I never got to use the CGW adjustable sear. Now that college is behind me a bit I will always get the adjustable sear. Not to be lazy on fitting, but because it is just such a nice part.
Hammer spring weights will impact the SA pull but not as dramatically as the DA pull. The SA will get the greatest improvement from one of the aftermarket hammers. It no only lightens the trigger pull weight, but it is a shorter break. So you have a nice crisp and short break, thus getting rid of some of that distance or creep on the SA. But it doesn't lessen the distance for the first part of the SA pull where you are lifting the FPB, if that makes sense. That, again, is done with the Short Reset Kits.
A good trigger for me would be 9-10# da, and 3.5-4.5# sa with less creep and maybe a shorter reset.
Either of the trigger I mentioned would get you that pull weight in SA.
For DA you need the lighter hammer spring and polish up the internals. There are quit a few posts and video tutorials on this forum and in the stickies section of the gun smithing section for the disassembly and polishing. According to CGW you can use their 13 lb hammer spring but you need to use the lightened firing pin spring. Those are both cheap and easy to do. You'll be right in the DA pull weight you want. Even a little lighter, maybe around 8.3 lbs. You can get lighter but you just need the extended firing pin to go lighter on the hammer spring. If you want to be super cheap you can trim the OEM springs. But if you are placing an order you might as well get their springs with how cheap they are.
The shorter reset comes as a kit.
https://cajungunworks.com/product/srs-1-short-reset-system/ or
https://cajungunworks.com/product/srs-2-short-reset-system-2/It includes the lighter hammer spring, lighter firing pin spring, and lighter firing pin block lifter spring. The costs are mostly in the extended firing pin, but you do need that lifter arm since it is improved. This ties back to earlier when I mentioned that I don't know if that lifter arm requires their extended firing pin. Everything else in those kits are things I recommend for doing this on the cheapest possible budget. The kits just add the short reset components.
Does the hammer affect the rest and would the ghost hammer from cz do what I want for the creep?
Hammer does not effect reset. It addresses one part of the creep, as discussed above.
What would I need to do for the da/sa ppull weights? I don't need a competition trigger and was hoping to not spend 200.00+.
Here's a shopping list for an idea. Everything is for the manual safety. The parts are available for decocker models. Decocker models don't require fitting the sear with an aftermarket hammer, but they are more complex to work on.
Spring Kit $17 |
https://cajungunworks.com/product/spgk1-3-piece-spring-kit-2/Lifter Arm Spring (keep a spare, the grow wings and fly away) $3.00
https://cajungunworks.com/product/15-lifter-spring/CGW Race Hammer $78 |
https://cajungunworks.com/product/manual-safety-blue-steel-hammer/CGW Hammer Pins $2.50 (get 2) |
https://cajungunworks.com/product/hpin/Firing Pin Retaining Pin $5.00 (an absolute must have) |
https://cajungunworks.com/product/61100-tempered-spring-steel-firing-pin-retaining-pin/Really nice to have parts
Floating Trigger Pin $12.00 |
https://cajungunworks.com/product/floating-trigger-pin/Reduced Power trigger Return Spring $7.00 |
https://cajungunworks.com/product/rp-trs-reduced-power-trigger-return-spring/That keeps you in your price range. The Short Reset Kits have a bunch of these parts. If you got the SRS 2 then you don't need the Firing Pin Retaining Pin or the Spring Kit or the extra lifter arm. So take $25 off and add the $72.
So with the parts above you are coming in at about $127
If you go the short rest route its around $169
Will probably get the safety model. Does it freak anyone out manually dropping the hammer on this? TY
All of mine are safety models. I am totally comfortable manually lowering the hammer. There a bunch of ways to do it. I use one of the variations where one thumb is between the hammer and slide so even if I slip it falls on my thumb. There are a bunch of threads about the ways to lower these hammers.
Let me know what questions this raises or what I may have left unanswered.
