Author Topic: My first steps in reloading  (Read 7447 times)

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Offline Rcher

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Re: My first steps in reloading
« Reply #15 on: April 25, 2020, 09:24:37 PM »
Wobbly -

. One of the reasons is that the CZ barrel simply requires more precise settings than your typical Ruger or S&W 9mm.

I don't have CZ, but I'd assume  that my CZ clone (Sarsilmaz Mega) has the shortest leade.

• Additionally, you'll find that the Lee FCD is an item that people either love or hate. If you think people get opinionated about politics, all that pales in comparison to feelings about the FCD !! Let's just say it's good enough to start with, but if you ever order from Midway or Grafs again, then add in one of these to have on hand.... Lee Taper Crimp Die. That will be $13 well spent.

Well, I'm confused with what Lee is saying that "...it offers little or no advantage when used with 1986 or newer Lee Dies as the crimp angle is already a modified taper crimp". Can you please clarify?

https://leeprecision.com/taper-crimp-die-9mm.html

• As to OAL.... Berry doesn't tell you what your OAL should be, that's a job best left to your Queen, the barrel. "Listen to the barrel" was the entire purpose of my first post. Not saying that 1.150" won't work, because it will fit. But we did a lot of testing here some years ago and proved that the bullets like to be more deeply seated, typically between 0.200 and 0.0250". That means you need to get down to at least 1.130". However, you needn't take my word for it. Load some at both lengths and see for yourself.

• As far as bullet length of your 124gr Berry RN... we know what that number is because we have THIS. If you'll average the length of 10 of your bullets, then I bet you'll come up with our number. Berry makes the very best plated bullets, and we've been using them almost 20 years. In fact they used to sponsor this very forum. So we're fairly comfortable with what we're advising you on.

• Your last photo (of the pulled bullet) looks normal to me. Usually a taper crimp in the correct range will leave a small indent in the bullet, which I see yours certainly has. However, as per THIS ARTICLE we'd still like you to set up your die to achieve case mouth diameters between 0.376 and 0.378". Or, as suggested, if you have a single brand of brass, then press a Berry into a sized case and measure that.

Quote
I have a question about factory new Lee dies. Any cleaning/lubrication is needed?
• I never have cleaned. I thoroughly disassemble and inspect, but knowing the Lee dies will rust, I would not do a lot of oil removal. In fact, I coat my Lee and Hornady dies with waxy case lube to keep them nice looking and to insure trouble-free operation.

Conclusion
• From all that I'm seeing and hear you saying, I think your're ready to load your first rounds this weekend. If you need any last minute clarifications I'll be popping in and out all day and we'll all be happy to assist.

All the best.

My powder/primers order will be delivered in May, so I have enough time to play with bullet seating and crimp setup :) Today I did plunk and push tests for all my 9mm barrels. First I made dummy round with 1.132 length with no crimp (just used seating die). My plunk test went well - dropped in with sound, I can twist bullet in chamber without problems, bullet is dropped out easily. Then I tried a push test and it was hard. I managed to push it further to 0.131 only on my Sarsilmaz Mega barrel. I think this can be still caliper's error and I didn't push it at all. After that I produced another dummy round with OAL 1.156 - my plunk tests went well on all barrels, but trying "push test" I was able to push it to 1.155 only.... Confused.

With this being said I think that either all my barrels chambers, including Sarsilmaz Mega are forgiving or round nose shape of Berrys's bullet fits all of them.

I think I will try reloading live ammo with OAL=1.14 and load 3.9/4.0 grains (Winchester 231) when I receive my powder and bullets. I still don't know when ranges will be open to try them, so I'm not in hurry anyway.

Thank you, everybody for your help  - I really appreciate it!
« Last Edit: April 26, 2020, 12:06:58 AM by Rcher »

Offline painter

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Re: My first steps in reloading
« Reply #16 on: April 26, 2020, 06:30:47 AM »
The Berry's RN bullet is very forgiving wrt OAL.

I would still suggest loading at 1.13 to achieve adequate seating depth, but like Wobbly says...try a longer length, and see what happens.
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Offline Dan Wesson

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Re: My first steps in reloading
« Reply #17 on: April 26, 2020, 08:33:35 AM »
 @wobbly said: "In fact, I coat my Lee and Hornady dies with waxy case lube to keep them nice looking and to insure trouble-free operation."

This is a keeper!

Offline M1A4ME

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Re: My first steps in reloading
« Reply #18 on: April 26, 2020, 09:07:25 AM »
Keep a logbook on your work so you can go back and refer to it if (really when) you have problems.  Record all the data you need to insure you have the data you need to help trouble shoot a problem. And to go back and make notes about weapon used/group size/reliability, etc. with that load data.

Mixing reloading equipment can lead to problems (mostly talking shell holders and dies here).  But, sometimes, even using equipment from the same maker and you'll still have a problem.

Bright lights in your work area, so you can see what you are doing and where you are setting the adjustments on the scale, powder measure, use the right shell holder, etc.

Organize.  I'm still coming up with different (not always better) ways to organize the small stuff so I know where it is when I want it.

Multiple sources of reloading data (I think I've got nine or ten reloading manuals plus I check out bullet maker and powder maker web sites for data, too.)  Yeah, they'll disagree fairly awesome but that's what happens when you use a different gun, different conditions, etc.  Sometimes I find data in the old books (like on Red Dot powder just the other day) that's not in some of the newer manuals - hey, I ran across a 4 lb. can of Red Dot from my dad's stash I'd forgotten I had).

Buy your components when you see them on sale, or a shipper is waiving shipping costs or hazmat costs.  Don't wait till you run out to start looking or you'll find yourself like a lot of other folks the last few weeks-complaining about how they can't find bullets, powder or primers.  Let alone ammo.

Inspection, inspection, inspection.  You handle brass, bullets, pour powder, etc.  Use that time to look the components over and make sure the cases are in good condition (you may not catch 100% of them but neither do the big companies that make/sell ammo), your bullets are formed correctly, the primers have the anvil in them and are the same color as the rest of them in the box, the powder looks/smells right, your scale is zeroed before you start, your cases have primers and powder in them before you seat a bullet.  And you are using the correct primers, powder, amount of powder and bullet for the ammo you are reloading.

Insure you have adequate storage containers/methods for reloaded ammo storage and a way to ID the loads in those containers.

I probably forgot some stuff along the way.
I just keep wasting time and money on other brands trying to find/make one shoot like my P07 and P09.  What is wrong with me?

Offline SoCal

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Re: My first steps in reloading
« Reply #19 on: April 26, 2020, 09:12:48 AM »

Well, I'm confused with what Lee is saying that "...it offers little or no advantage when used with 1986 or newer Lee Dies as the crimp angle is already a modified taper crimp". Can you please clarify?

https://leeprecision.com/taper-crimp-die-9mm.html


I think this is in reference to "combination bullet seating AND crimp dies".

https://leeprecision.com/bul-seat-die-9mm-lug.html

Many re-loaders of handgun rounds prefer to seat the bullet in one station and remove the bell (taper crimp) next, especially with coated rounds.  You adjust the seating die to only seat, Lee includes this with the instructions.
« Last Edit: April 26, 2020, 10:06:59 AM by SoCal »
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Offline Wobbly

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Re: My first steps in reloading
« Reply #20 on: April 26, 2020, 09:19:51 AM »
I don't have CZ, but I'd assume that my CZ clone (Sarsilmaz Mega) has the shortest leade.


• You're not catching on. In science, in reloading, we do not make assumptions... we do tests, we make measurements, and find out for ourselves. We take a set of facts, we build on those facts by combining them with new facts until we see the entire picture. Doing it any other way is simply dangerous. Making assumptions in this hobby can get you a missing finger or blinded eye.

• I'm not familiar with your pistol. When makers claim it is a 'CZ clone', what they are saying is that they bought the patent rights from CZ for the CZ 75 trigger mechanism. The "mechanism design" does not cover the barrel, which could use any dimensions. Bottom line: I don't know and you don't know. So you're starting from zero, and you'll need to do all your own measurements.

Hot tip of the day: Throw all the hear-say, internet rumors, and the false advertising out the window and believe only what you measure for yourself using your measuring tools and your barrel. That's the only way to safely proceed.


Well, I'm confused with what Lee is saying that "...it offers little or no advantage when used with 1986 or newer Lee Dies as the crimp angle is already a modified taper crimp". Can you please clarify?


Before the 80's there was really only one 9mm on the market, the Browning Hi Power. The 9x19 Luger cartridge was a 'joke', and all real men carried a 1911 in 45ACP. About the only 9mm made in the USA was a Ruger revolver. And revolvers all use a Roll Crimp.... so a lot of 9mm Dies provided a roll crimp in place of the correct taper crimp.

Then the US Army converted to 9mm and the USA went 9mm crazy. All of a sudden law enforcement departments everywhere were converting to 9mm, and 9mm pistol sales were through the roof. So die makers had to go back and start revising all the die designs. But still, most reloaders were using single stage presses where you need to change the die for every step. So the maximum number of dies for handgun reloading was 3. Seating and Crimping functions both took place in the 3rd die.

Then Dillon popularized the progressive press. It was shown early on that the crimp process was much better done is a separate step, and not in the Seating Die as had been done for the previous 60 years. So the 4th die entered the reloading scene.

So what I believe they are trying to say is that if your Seating Die has previously applied either type of cartridge mouth crimp, then this die will be of little use. Which is a true (but very nebulous) statement.

All I can say is that I use this exact die on 3 different calipers and it works very good for applying a simple and highly effective Taper Crimp onto the cartridge case mouth. And it does so without changing the bullet or cartridge diameter, which the FCD is very famous for doing.


My powder/primers order will be delivered in May, so I have enough time to play with bullet seating and crimp setup :) Today I did plunk and push tests for all my 9mm barrels. First I made dummy round with 1.132 length with no crimp (just used seating die). My plunk test went well - dropped in with sound, I can twist bullet in chamber without problems, bullet is dropped out easily. Then I tried a push test and it was hard. I managed to push it further to 0.131 only on my Sarsilmaz Mega barrel. I think this can be still caliper's error and I didn't push it at all. After that I produced another dummy round with OAL 1.156 - my plunk tests went well on all barrels, but trying "push test" I was able to push it to 1.155 only.... Confused.

By using our test (as clearly outlined HERE) use of any other method is made moot because our test method is more detailed, and in fact more thorough. Your testing was "hard" because you did not follow the instructions. Please read them again.


With this being said I think that either all my barrels chambers, including Sarsilmaz Mega are forgiving or round nose shape of Berrys's bullet fits all of them.

Yes the Berry ogive shape is very forgiving. We knew that. You should be getting a Max OAL measurement well in excess of 1.169". Something more than 1.180".


I think I will try reloading live ammo with OAL=1.14 and load 3.9/4.0 grains (Winchester 231) when I receive my powder and bullets. I still don't know when ranges will be open to try them, so I'm not in hurry anyway.

OK. So what I hear you saying is that you're not following our advice on OAL. And you're not going to shoot a "ladder" of incremental loads beginning at the Staring Load.

All the best.
« Last Edit: July 03, 2020, 06:30:00 AM by Wobbly »
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Offline eastman

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Re: My first steps in reloading
« Reply #21 on: April 26, 2020, 03:20:29 PM »
... I don't have CZ, but I'd assume  that my CZ clone (Sarsilmaz Mega) has the shortest leade.



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Offline Rcher

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Re: My first steps in reloading
« Reply #22 on: April 26, 2020, 08:27:00 PM »
Thank you for very detailed reply, that' a lot I learned Don't get me wrong - I'm 100% for scientific approach!

By using our test (as clearly outlined HERE) use of any other method is made moot because our test method is more detailed, and in fact more thorough. Your testing was "hard" because you did not follow the instructions. Please rear them again.


Yep. I did exactly as described but used sized and expanded cases, instead of "fired". My bad. Today I repeated THIS test with great diligence. I used 5 bullets and 3 fired cases for my test. It was not easy to find cases where I can freely push Berry's bullet, I end up with 3 Blazer Brass cases (thinner brass) and same length. Tried on all my barrels multiple times (it took about 2 hours overall).

My OALs before test was about 1.190-1.210. After all my attempts I got "push test" results from 1.180" to 1.156" and can't push bullet into chamber any further. And I'm sure that bullet is still "pushable" - cause I can push it against my desk.

So, how should I read these results: "1.156 - 1.180"? Again, this range of values is for all my barrels, 5 different bullets and 3 different cases. 


Offline Wobbly

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Re: My first steps in reloading
« Reply #23 on: April 26, 2020, 11:09:10 PM »
Well, if you tried it on all your barrels, then you need to accept the shortest number as your "limit" since a cartridge of that length will work in all your barrels. So your Max OAL for that specific bullet is 1.156 - 0.015 or 1.140".

Piece of cake.
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Offline Pistolet

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Re: My first steps in reloading
« Reply #24 on: April 27, 2020, 02:37:59 PM »
I wish I had read this thread before, I just loaded a ladder With berry's 124gr RN and some AA#7 using Western powder's data. They report 6.5 to 7.6gr and a whopping 1.160 OAL. It seemed a little long but I did as recommended but no higher than 7.4grains. Even at 6.5 gr the case is quiet full. We will see how it works when the range is open again.
Sorry for hijacking
« Last Edit: April 27, 2020, 03:46:05 PM by Pistolet »

Offline Wobbly

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Re: My first steps in reloading
« Reply #25 on: April 28, 2020, 08:44:23 AM »
I wish I had read this thread before, I just loaded a ladder with Berry's 124gr RN and some AA#7 using Western powder's data. They report 6.5 to 7.6gr and a whopping 1.160 OAL. It seemed a little long but I did as recommended....

• I'm glad you did inject this. As stated in the "Finding Max OAL" article, the numbers they mention are part of their report, and are not a recommendation for what OAL you should be using. Go back and read again. The introduction to the article was re-written about 45 days ago to make this clearer.

• Luckily, but only because the Berry RN design is so forgiving, you can load at an 1.160" OAL and still fire these in a CZ. That would absolutely not be an option with most other brands. If it weren't for the fact that No.7 requires so much volume I'd tell you to go back and re-seat them, but they'll do OK just like they are. However, they will not be the most accurate bullet you ever shot.

Here's a real recommendation: I realize powder is hard to come by right now, but... Next time try the bullet more deeply seated (say 1.130") and use W231, HP38, Sport Pistol, N320, Bullseye or something in that speed range. These powders will use about 1/3 less powder and will more easily accommodate deeper seating.

 ;)


Now we return you to our regularly scheduled thread...
« Last Edit: April 28, 2020, 08:54:36 AM by Wobbly »
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Offline Pistolet

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Re: My first steps in reloading
« Reply #26 on: April 28, 2020, 12:41:22 PM »
I wish I had read this thread before, I just loaded a ladder with Berry's 124gr RN and some AA#7 using Western powder's data. They report 6.5 to 7.6gr and a whopping 1.160 OAL. It seemed a little long but I did as recommended....

• I'm glad you did inject this. As stated in the "Finding Max OAL" article, the numbers they mention are part of their report, and are not a recommendation for what OAL you should be using. Go back and read again. The introduction to the article was re-written about 45 days ago to make this clearer.

• Luckily, but only because the Berry RN design is so forgiving, you can load at an 1.160" OAL and still fire these in a CZ. That would absolutely not be an option with most other brands. If it weren't for the fact that No.7 requires so much volume I'd tell you to go back and re-seat them, but they'll do OK just like they are. However, they will not be the most accurate bullet you ever shot.

Here's a real recommendation: I realize powder is hard to come by right now, but... Next time try the bullet more deeply seated (say 1.130") and use W231, HP38, Sport Pistol, N320, Bullseye or something in that speed range. These powders will use about 1/3 less powder and will more easily accommodate deeper seating.

 ;)


Now we return you to our regularly scheduled thread...
I was trying some leftover AA#7 that I had been using for .357 magnum. I'm just experimenting with various combos since the range is closed. Hornady AA#7 "worked exceptionally well". I also ran a ladder  with AA#7 and PD124gr RN.

Offline M1A4ME

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Re: My first steps in reloading
« Reply #27 on: April 28, 2020, 01:30:42 PM »
Sometimes an oddball/not usually recommended powder can really surprise you.

I've finished trying BE86 and AA#7 for the .40's.  Even the lead bullets with Herco (I know, an odd powder for .40 S&W) shoots better groups than I got with those two powders and the jacketed hollow points.  What does best for me, so far, in the .40 with jacketed bullets is Blue Dot.

If you settle on a "good load" or two and that's all you try/buy components for you may be cheating yourself later if those components are hard to get for one reason or another.

My powder for .223's for years was IMR4198 (and oddball powder for the bullets I use) but in the last few years I've found two other powders that work nearly as well (BLC2 and H335). 

You buy a 1 lb. can of powder now and then and work up some loads with different bullets to see if you can come up with a good combo, be sure to write the data down and then later, if you need components and can't find the usual you buy/use you might be able to find something that still works well.

I'm about to try Red Dot in 9MM (125 grain coated lead bullets), Unique in .40 S&W and one other powder I can't remember right now (loads been sitting on the bench for more than a month now that I haven't been going to the range.

I've got 147 grain hollow points waiting on 9MM loading, 124 grain HAP waiting on loading, 180 LFN in .40, 165 grain hollow points for the .40, etc., etc.  Just waiting on loading time and range time to try out.
I just keep wasting time and money on other brands trying to find/make one shoot like my P07 and P09.  What is wrong with me?

Offline recoilguy

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Re: My first steps in reloading
« Reply #28 on: April 28, 2020, 04:42:01 PM »
I don't have CZ, but I'd assume that my CZ clone (Sarsilmaz Mega) has the shortest leade.




Hot tip of the day: Throw all the hear-say, internet rumors, and the false advertising out the window and believe only what you measure for yourself using your measuring tools and your barrel. That's the only way to safely proceed.




Great advice right here
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Offline Rcher

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Re: My first steps in reloading
« Reply #29 on: July 01, 2020, 10:38:30 PM »
Well, today I tested my first reloads. Last time I shoot my handguns 6 months ago, so without good practice I'm satisfied with today's results.

Tested loads:

Berry's 124 gr RN, Blazer Brass, OAL=1.1400, CCI 500, Win 231  3.9 gr
Berry's 124 gr RN, Blazer Brass, OAL=1.1400, CCI 500, Win 231  4.0 gr

For warmup shoot factory S&B 124gr RN.

Tested guns:
Beretta 92FS
Sarsilmaz Mega 2000

Posting results for Sarsilmaz only, my accuracy with Beretta was bad today even with factory ammo. Need to work on my grip, it was terrible.

Reloaded bullet (top) and shot cartridge (middle) compared with factory S&B (bottom):


Distance: 7 yards, 3" target

Berry's 124gr RN, OAL=1.1400, Win 231 3.9 gr:


Berry's 124gr RN, OAL=1.1400, Win 231 4.0 gr:



Overall, I'm happy - recoil is very soft and my results with factory ammo aren't better. And without any practice during last 6 months I didn't expect more :)