Anybody done Gun-Kote? -- Got any hints?

[bps2799]

I just stripped my 75 and am seriously thinking about this product (I just ordered a can).

Does this stuff either powder dry (for lack of a better term) where it drys before hitting the object to be coated and gives a pebble finish, or run easily?

Additionally, if you sprayed a handgun with the stuff, how did you place the parts so they'd get an even coating and not get "seams" where the coating ran and puddled under the parts.

I'm thinking of putting my frame upside down, running a 1 X 2" inside the mag well (shaped to fit) and spraying  it.  Anyone got a better idea?

As for the slide, I think a dowel up under the recoil spring housing under the barrel would be a  good way to suspend the slide for proper coating.  Again, ideas welcomed.

Oh, BTW, what did you use to degrease?

[Cricket67]

I went to their site and noticed that they do have aplication instructions there.  Also, I could not believe the different colors.  It did take some time thought to try to find an email address so I could get some sample pictures.

I might scratch up my gun, so that I can try this.  They even have stainless and nickel finishes available. Wow.  They got my attention.

[feed-the-monkey]

I recently refinished my compact after doing a melt on the frame with the "stainless" color version. I used a small badger airbrush and it went on very even with no running problems at all. The finish looks great. However it did start wearing almost immediatly from some presentations from the holster. I use a kydex holster for IDPA. However I did not use the aluminum oxide material that they reccommend. I used 140grit glass beads for blasting the frame. Maybe the finish needs a rougher finish to adhere to better?

I wish I had a better digital camera I'd take some photos.

Also I did use the K-Phos product. Couldn't tell you if it helped or not. I also used their KG degreaser.

[feed-the-monkey]

I almost forgot. I cut a piece of coat hanger and used the screw that holds the mag release spring as a holder while I sprayed the frame. It worked out pretty well. I just had a VERY small area of the frame that was not coated after removing the screw.

[Walt-Sherrill]

Quote: The finish looks great. However it did start wearing almost immediatly from some presentations from the holster.

 Did you use one of the BAKE-ON finishes?  I've never heard of Gun-Kote showing wear so quickly.

[bps2799]

I think alcohol and acetone will be my degreasers.

Does anyone think 200 grit sandpaper would be okay rather than beadblasting (already did this)?  I don't want to have to send this gun out to anyone, else they may as well do it themselves.

I'm going to use the stuff in the aerosol can, not an airbrush, so this is less than ideal.

[Walt-Sherrill]

600 or 800 grit, rather than 200 grit, I would argue.  200 is pretty coarse for gun work.  Start with 200, maybe, and then work down.

[bps2799]

Surprisingly, 220 grit leaves a decent brushed looking finish, but I will move up the grit ladder.

[feed-the-monkey]

Yes, I used KG3 degreaser, then bead blasted, then degreased again. Sprayed the K-Phos, let dry for about 15 minutes. Pre-heated part to about 120-140 (the oven doesn't go down to 120) sprayed a coat of Gun-Kote (brused stainless color) then baked for about 1-2 minutes to quick dry. Sprayed another coat, baked again for 1-2 minutes, then a third coat. Then I baked for 75 minutes at about 350.  I was pretty surprised myself. Not sure where I screwed up the process. I used this exact same system on another gun, but have not completed it yet to test for holster wear. I also don't have a kydex holster for it.

[bps2799]

Baking too long can be bad, but it was only an extra 15 minutes.

Did you apply acetone or Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) to the finish afterwards?  

Supposedly, if properly cured, the finish will be invulnerable to these solvents.

[Cricket67]

Here is a pic of a 1911 done with Gun_kote.  Fabulous product.

community.webshots.com/st...cAp_ph.jpg

[feed-the-monkey]

I talked to the great folks at Gun Cote and they were VERY helpful. First they really reccommend using 100-120 grit aluminum oxide instead of the 150 grit glass beads I used. They said the Aluminum oxide would better prepare the surface for the paint to adhere. Also for the blasted stainless color I got he said I did not have to worry about the color changing at higher temps or for longer. He said I could bake at 400 for 1.5 hours if I want and it would be tougher. I need to get some Aluminum oxide next. I really do like this stuff.