8.5# hammer spring and CCI primer reliability?

[Ciph3r]

I just got my 8.5# spring in from CGW and went out to test, two failures on my reloads, all with CCI primers, thought maybe it was my fault, that I had effed up my reloading, but then I slapped them in my Glock and they both went off.

Any way to increase this reliability? I'm thinking I could take the firing pin back out and polish it some more and it might reduce friction enough to set the primers off, otherwise it's back to the 13# spring for the competition coming up this weekend, until I can order an 11.5#.

Anyone manage to run CCI with the 8.5# springs?

What primers do you guys usually use for your 8.5# springs?

EDIT: Just tested with Federal RTP, two failures requiring a restrike.

Something ain't right. I'm gonna polish some more.

[jameslovesjammie]

8.5 is only going to run with Federal primers.  CCI have the hardest cup, and therefore the most difficult to ignite.

I run CCI primers in my 75B .40 with the extended firing pin and 11.5 spring.  100% reliable.

[Ciph3r]

8.5 is only going to run with Federal primers.  CCI have the hardest cup, and therefore the most difficult to ignite.

I run CCI primers in my 75B .40 with the extended firing pin and 11.5 spring.  100% reliable.

After thorough repolishing, cleaning the paint off of the new spring, grinding on the hammer strut some more, polishing the firing pin some more, ETC, I'm still getting 2-3 failures every magazine with both CCI AND Federal primers, the federals are capable of being restruck and they will go off, the CCI primers that fail, doesn't matter how many times I restrike, it won't go off.

What should I do with this spring? It very clearly isn't going to work.

Anyone wanna trade for an 11#? 

[jameslovesjammie]

Others may have different experiences, but I've NEVER gotten a 8.5 spring to run with CCI primers, regardless of how much polishing I have done.  You didn't mention if you are running the extended firing pin, but this is required with the 8.5 and 11.5 lb spring.

[1SOW]

I use the 8.5# spring and it only fires reliably with Feds.  Win primers it FTF most of the time/mag..
CCI is a harder primer to fire than WIN.
You'll find similar info on the CGW site:  only FED primers.

[cntrydawwwg]

Just curious, you say the Feds fire on second strike. Are you sure they are seated all the way?

[Ciph3r]

Others may have different experiences, but I've NEVER gotten a 8.5 spring to run with CCI primers, regardless of how much polishing I have done.  You didn't mention if you are running the extended firing pin, but this is required with the 8.5 and 11.5 lb spring.

I am indeed, using an SRS-1 kit, extended firing pin, reduced power spring, ETC.

Just curious, you say the Feds fire on second strike. Are you sure they are seated all the way?

Using both factory and reloaded, primers are seated as far as my 450 will allow it. Still requiring restrikes.

Sent CGW an email, they said they'll consider replacing it with an 11.5# spring or refunding it.

[Morbid1X]

You need the 13 # mainspring for 100% ignition

[Ciph3r]

You need the 13 # mainspring for 100% ignition

Already have it, want to get a little bit better trigger pull.

[IDescribe]

You can achieve 100% ignition with the 8.5# spring, extended firing pin, reduced power firing pin spring, and Federal primers. 

Go to different primers, and then it's no longer 100%. 

Personally, I use the extended firing pin, reduced power FP spring, CGW 11.5# main spring, and Winchester primers.

[1SOW]

EDIT: Just tested with Federal RTP, two failures requiring a restrike

.

1.  Primers are not fully seated. What case brands/headstamps are you using?
2.  The FP channel is carboned up  or the FP spring may be damaged or broken or the hammer doesn't travel freely due to crud or lack of lube at friction points or the hammer spring / rod is obstructed / not lubed.  Is the mag brake in stalled properly?

[Ciph3r]

EDIT: Just tested with Federal RTP, two failures requiring a restrike

.

1.  Primers are not fully seated. What case brands/headstamps are you using?
2.  The FP channel is carboned up  or the FP spring may be damaged or broken or the hammer doesn't travel freely due to crud or lack of lube at friction points or the hammer spring / rod is obstructed / not lubed.  Is the mag brake in stalled properly?

1. Federal RTP is factory federal ammo. Also when I reload, I use mainly Federal brass because it's the only brand I buy pre-loaded, so it's what I have the most of.

2. I polished the FP channel with a long cotton swab and flitz before re-installing the spring again. The firing pin (CGW Extended) is brand new, the spring is brand new and is still springy. The hammer has no hiderance at all, I reprofiled it and polished, it moves as smooth as a hammer can move now. It was freshly lubricated the second time I tried. The mag brake is installed properly.

It just don't woik.

[1SOW]

I'm not challenging you in any way,  just trying to help.
IF the primers are seated properly,  IF the "extended"  FP travels freely with a good spring,  IF the hammer operates properly with no obstructions with the hammer or spring then the primer WILL fire.

Put a common wooden pencil, eraser end first into the bbl,  and pull the trigger with the muzzle pointed straight up.
How far does the pencil travel?

Do this enough times to have had FTFs in your pistol.

Just another thought,  do you remember if the FTFs are just in SA or DA?  Try both with the FP strike test.

[Ciph3r]

I'm not challenging you in any way,  just trying to help.

IF the primers are seated properly,  IF the "extended"  FP travels freely with a good spring,  IF the hammer operates properly with no obstructions with the hammer or spring then the primer WILL fire.

Put a common wooden pencil, eraser end first into the bbl,  and pull the trigger with the muzzle pointed straight up.
How far does the pencil travel?

Do this enough times to have had FTFs in your pistol.

Just another thought,  do you remember if the FTFs are just in SA or DA?  Try both with the FP strike test.

I was getting light primer strikes on every round I fired.

I tried the wooden pencil thing first, it bounced but didn't go far.

FTFs were in DA AND SA.

I'm not challenging you in any way,  just trying to help.

Sorry if I came off as snooty, that was not intended.

Anyway, all the parts in the gun are CGW parts, firing pin, TRS, FPRP, spring, ETC. It should be working, but it's just not building enough force with the 8.5# spring. It's 100% reliable with EVERYTHING with the 13# spring though. Maybe it IS my reloads, or maybe I need to be using Federal Match primers? I don't know. I would have thought it would have worked with factory federal ammo of all things.

[1SOW]

Fed 100s and Fed Match are the same primer.  The match primers are given an additional inspection for being properly made.  At least,  that is what I read somewhere..  I use both depending on availability at the order time. No chrono'd or shooting differences between the two.
In addition to a soft case, Fed primers are made using an older formula that contains a very small amount of nitroglycerin.  No other U.S.A.primer still uses it.

Estimtate in inches the pencil travel.  I'll check mine.  I shot a 100 Rd Mach this morning and the gun was 500rds dirty.
Zero issues.  It"ll still be dirty when I check.the FP hit.