The Original CZ Forum
GENERAL => CZ Gunsmithing => Topic started by: Tok36 on January 31, 2017, 08:26:10 PM
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There are a few differences in the CZ safety and decocker models. The differences that pertain to this modification or fix are the design of the sear cage pin and how the sear cage is retained in the pistol frame.
In a CZ75 variant model decocker the sear cage pin not only retains the sear cage parts in the sear cage but also retains the sear cage in the pistol frame. A CZ decockers sear cage pin is longer than that of a safety models. It goes through the sear cage and both sides of the pistols frame. This design has the benefit of maintaining the sear cages position in the frame more solidly and allows for less sear cage movement while the trigger is pulled. Edit: Clarification: In aluminum framed CZ 75 variant pistols the sear cage pin may only go through the right side of the frame. The left side of the sear cage pin may be stopped by a fixing insert. I am unclear what bearing the difference in design has on sear cage stability at this time.
In a CZ75 variant safety model the sear cage pin only retains the sear cage parts. It is shorter than a CZ decockers sear cage pin and dose not go through the pistol frame. The sear cage in a CZ safety model is retained by the safety lever shaft. This set up offers the sear cage less stability and allows for movement of the sear cage within the frame in some instances. This movement can affect the trigger pull negatively which is more noticeable in single action. This can be more pronounced in a tuned configuration leading to a single action trigger pull that is less crisp than it would be otherwise.
One way to detect sear cage movement in a safety model CZ is to watch the safety levers while pulling the trigger in DA and SA. Because the sear cage is retained by the safety lever shaft, if the sear cage is moving the safety levers will also move or dance when the trigger is pulled. The severity of the sear cage movement differs from pistol to pistol, each factory CZ is a little different and some do not seam to move at all or not enough to be detectable. Some shooters will not be bothered by the sear cage movements effect on the trigger pull. So if it ain't broke don't fix it.
Shimming the sear cage is one option for sear cage stabilization. It comes with the side effect of complicating disassembly. Another option is to make a replacement #19 Hammer Pin Retaining Pin and hand fit it to a CZ 75 variant safety model. This can reduce or completely remove the sear cage movement. I recently completed this modification with positive results. My experience with this modification is detailed below.
Links to the reference threads i used for this modification. I believe these are worth reading as well:
Sear Cage Movement
http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=52047.0;topicseen
Another way to tighten a loose sear cage
http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=63281.msg421884#msg421884
First i acquired material to fabricate a replacement #19 Hammer pin retaining pin. It is suggested in one of the reference threads to use 0.086 drill rod. The closest drill rod that i could find was 0.095. I cut an extra long peace so that i could chuck it in a drill and turn it down with sand paper to the desired diameter. You have some options on the final pin diameter depending on how you intend on fitting the new part. I ended up with a diameter a little over (0.086). After final fitting this still allowed for a looses enough fit so that the new pin could lean back a bit and contact/stop on the inside of the frame with the installed sear cage pushing on it. It seams that another option is to match the diameter of the new pin tightly to the hole so that the pin dose not rest on the frame. This may alleviate the pin interacting with the spring for the lefts side safety detent. I ended up removing a bit of material from the back side of the pin instead to allow for the spring clearance. In my case this worked out well, every CZ will be a little different. During fitting things should become more clear for the CZ that you are working with.
A reference picture of the #19 Factory hammer pin retaining pin.
(http://i.imgur.com/NVmVukC.jpg)
A view of the #19 pin from inside the frame with the sear cage removed.
(http://i.imgur.com/8WUfNPM.jpg)
Factory #19 pin next to the replacement stating material
(http://i.imgur.com/93dQMrL.jpg)
A reference picture of the pin installed after it was turned down but before it was cut to size. Once cut down to the correct size the replacement pin should not be higher than the rear of the frame next to the hammer. Once reinstalled the sear cage will cover part of the pin at the frame hole.
(http://i.imgur.com/v19m6Gs.jpg)
Alternative view from outside the frame of the pin installed after it was turned down to the correct diameter but before it was cut to size
(http://i.imgur.com/at3Zukl.jpg)
Replacement pin turned down to size, cut to length, and roughly notched out to make room for the sear cage. Note: Once installed the sear cage blocks half of the hole for the factory #19 pin so the replacement pin being longer must be notched out to make space for the sear cage to fit into its orignal position in the frame.
(http://i.imgur.com/shcEQ6O.jpg)
Alternate view.
(http://i.imgur.com/EzDrl3R.jpg)
The final shape in my case was this. Note: The notch in the pin starts at the top of the pin and runs down as far as the hole in the pistol frame. If the notch dose not run down far enough it may push the sear cage up once it is reinstalled, in my case this was not necessary. Each pistol frame and sear cage are a little different, observe and fit accordingly. Make sure to check the clearance of the top of the sear cage to the underside of the slide. If there is contact the top of the sear cage can be filed to fit.
(http://i.imgur.com/76C70xA.jpg)
Replacement pin cut down to size, it is now flush with the top of the frame next to the pistols hammer. This is the replacement pins final profile and length in my case. Each pistol is a little different the replacement pin must be hand to fit the pistol it will be installed into.
(http://i.imgur.com/Ub8RRcC.jpg)
Final reassembly. Sear cage, Safety detents and Safety levers reinstalled. While test fitting the replacement pin it is a good idea to keep an eye on the safety detents, if they move they can impede the sear cages installation and it can feel like the replacement pin is causing the issue when it is not. Make sure to check the pistols slide clearance to the top of the sear cage as well. Improper clearance can cause malfunction and or damage. Testing the fitment in my case required installing/removing the sear cage with and without the new pin in place to check the sear cages position. First without the safety detents installed then with the safety detents installed. Closely inspecting the rear of the sear cage that contacts the new pin helped with sizing and finding the correct angle.
(http://i.imgur.com/ZtKqIEE.jpg)
Side view view of final reassembly. Cold blueing the replacement pin to color match the orignal is an option.
(http://i.imgur.com/YnD01xn.jpg)
In the end this modification removed the final bit of creep/squishyness from the SA trigger pull of my DIY Pro Package CZ75 SP-01. The sear cage is now rock solid in the frame and i am pleased with the results. Doing this work took less time than i had anticipated and in some small ways gave me a greater understanding of the platform. It also lowered the single action trigger pull by a small margin. I will likely repeat this mod on a few of my other CZ safety models to test the gains.
Note: This post has been updated with input from forum members posts below.
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Great job Tok! I've done this a few times myself with good results.
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Tok, I found a #44 drill rod stock/.085" . $2.05 for a 12" piece. Should this size work for tightening up my sear cage in a 75 Shadow?
Mine is really loose.
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Great job Tok! I've done this a few times myself with good results.
Thanks Leadpilot.
Tok, I found a #44 drill rod stock/.085" . $2.05 for a 12" piece. Should this size work for tightening up my sear cage in a 75 Shadow?
Mine is really loose.
I assume that it would work fine 1SOW, the pins fitment to the hole seams less important than its fitment to the rear of the sear cage and the inside of the frame. It would save you the time of turning it down as well, the material is hard so it took a little while chucked in a cordless drill. I have seen a few folks use broken drill bits as well.
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Thanks,
For that money, I'll give a try. (I haven't checked the shipping cost yet, so I better not brag on the low price. ::))
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This is just so dang beautiful! Thanks for taking the time to write this up and share! Just as I was feeling pretty versed in the manual safety CZ gunsmithing I am humbled. Guess I have another project for my pistols!
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Found some O1 tool steel rod on Amazon at 0.086 and 36" long. Guess I'll have a lifetime supply. Ordered it and I should be able to do this for one of my CZ's this weekend. Thanks again Tok!
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Do you have a before and after video with the pins and movement? I don't think I've ever noticed creep in this form, but I'm probably just not aware.
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Found some O1 tool steel rod on Amazon at 0.086 and 36" long. Guess I'll have a lifetime supply. Ordered it and I should be able to do this for one of my CZ's this weekend. Thanks again Tok!
You could share! O0
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This is just so dang beautiful! Thanks for taking the time to write this up and share! Just as I was feeling pretty versed in the manual safety CZ gunsmithing I am humbled. Guess I have another project for my pistols!
I hear ya Scarlett, i am humbled often by the information that i come by on these forums.
Do you have a before and after video with the pins and movement? I don't think I've ever noticed creep in this form, but I'm probably just not aware.
Take a look at your safety levers or the sear cage with the slide off while you pull the trigger. If it is there you should be able to observe the movement, especially at the reset. I assume that even with movement it is not guaranteed to negatively effect the trigger in every case. With a factory hammer i did not notice, a little while after i installed a race hammer the movement became apparent. Keep in mind this modification as i see it is not necessary for every shooter, it is a trigger refinement option for those who have identified an issue and feel the need to improve it. In my case for example, i may not notice the difference while i am shooting at my level, it is more about what is possible mechanically for me.
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Found some O1 tool steel rod on Amazon at 0.086 and 36" long. Guess I'll have a lifetime supply. Ordered it and I should be able to do this for one of my CZ's this weekend. Thanks again Tok!
You could share! O0
W1 steel:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050RP5XU/ref=biss_dp_t_buying_options
Guess there was only 1 in stock of the O1 steel..
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050RNWTO/ref=biss_dp_t_buying_options
If it's quality and works I can send you a piece.
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A quick lookup shows a #44 number drill is .086
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Tok36's modification is a tried and true formula. But be careful to check the top of the sear cage. Since the sear cage is designed to "float", and this means up and down, if you load the sear cage with a new pin, thus raising the cage, the slides pick rib can contact the top of the sear cage. This is why the factory fix (for example the Tactical Sport) uses springs at the rear of the sear cage to resist movement.
So be sure and check this once done since interference between the sear cage and slide pick up rib can cause malfunctions as well as mechanical stress. Ask me how I know ???
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This is why the factory fix (for example the Tactical Sport) uses springs at the rear of the sear cage to resist movement.
First off, thank you for everything you do to help us out Schmeky! I wondered why those little springs were in the Tactical Sport sear sage. Would a Tactical Sport Sear cage fit the manual safety SP-01's and CZ 75's? Does that provide a comparable solution if so, or would this modification Tok showed us still work better?
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Words cannot describe how pleased I am! Thank you! Thank you for you posting this and to those who paved the way before.
Just did this for my SP-01 and the fit is TIGHT! I actually have to redo the over travel screw on my old style trigger now!!! Before this mod this wasn't a sloppy trigger by any means, but now it is just that much better. I'll admit the gains are marginal, but it's those last little things that make it feel unbelievable! Between this and really tuning the trigger bar spring my triggers are making the first steps of ascension. ;D
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Nice! I believe there are even more gems waiting for us, hidden with the forums. The accumulated knowledge if this place is deep and it is always building. Keep looking and we will find them.
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Has anyone got a pic of the TAC Sport setup with springs used to hold the sear steady? Where does it contact the sear?
Using a variation of Toks method, it might be possible to weld a flat thin piece of metal to the top of the existing pin and use a spring or a flat piece of spring steel to do the same job. ?? Maybe?
The flat vs angled surface of the mod, might be easier to fit and self-align when installed. Maybe? ::)
Too much time on my hands. My Marine buddy out shot me with his STI 40 Cal Limited pistol today at practice. O0 :)
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I plan on posting some full disassembly coverage on the TS when i detail strip mine including close ups of the TS sear cage desing. For now you can get a decent look at TS sear cage spring set up in this video .
CZ 75 Tactical Sport Reassembly and Modifications (time: 18:55)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4_vzv8jNxdk
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I have a 75 and a 97 both with SAO and CGW hammer, couldn't figure why the 97 trigger was crisp and the 75 trigger not so crisp. Not noticeable every pull , maybe 1 in 3.Polished the heck out of the 75 internals with no improvement. Did the sear cage fit with the extended pin on the 75 and it worked wonders.. Not difficult , took about 2 hrs , need to take down the pin top a bit at a time to get a snug fit. Thanks TOK for this great information!
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I will be doing it this week courtesy of Scarlett Pistol. Can't wait!
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I will be doing it this week courtesy of Scarlett Pistol. Can't wait!
BTW I cut yours to do it the way Tok has I his pictures. Let me know if you need any more (incase 3 isn't enough or I somehow cut them too short...)
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Just did the mod to my S2! Tremendous improvement! Absolutely zero creep now. Trigger pull in SA is also now 2lb 10 oz. so it dropped a tad.
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Just did the mod to my S2! Tremendous improvement! Absolutely zero creep now. Trigger pull in SA is also now 2lb 10 oz. so it dropped a tad.
Woo-hoo! We've converted another! Gonna do it to the 85 now?
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Possibly another week. To be honest, I haven't pulled my 85C out since I got my S2. I only bring it to the range when I bring friends to shoot :P
If it were easier for me to sell it, I would sell it and pick up another gun!
But seriously though.. takes like no time at all to do this mod if you have a dremel. And MASSIVE improvement.
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Man I gotta try this on my S2 now.
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I may need a couple of these, what are they?
O0
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Me 2. :-[
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I may need a couple of these, what are they?
O0
Me 2. :-[
You mean the pieces of steel rod for doing the mod? I can cut a few more from the piece I ordered. Shoot me a PM w your info and I'll snail mail to you two. If you want if Amazon 2 day priority shipping I charge $20... [emoji48]
That's goes for anyone else. At least until I run out. I can probably cut 6 or 8 pieces out of my rod.
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Cut my rod down and have about 10 pieces left as spares. For the mod 0.6" has been plenty but since the metal heats where I cut it I have cut at about 0.7" to 0.8" just to give some extra length. Cooled after each cut, so it shouldn't have tempered it and I don't think it gets hot enough to temper from these cuts. Since I don't know for sure I played it safe. First come first serve with freebies.
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Like many of the regulars here, you are a saint, a scholar and a hero Scarlett Pistol! Thank you. I hope we can return the good karma some day.
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Cut my rod down and have about 10 pieces left as spares.
This sounds painful! But I could use a couple. Still got'um? O0
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Cut my rod down and have about 10 pieces left as spares.
This sounds painful! But I could use a couple. Still got'um? O0
Sure do! PM me where you want them sent and how many you need.
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So after seeing that slvrdragon did it to his S2 and had improvement, I decided to just try it since it was a cheap mod. I didn't really notice anymore SA creep ever since I put in the CGW race hammer and adj sear but I went the Scarlett route and ordered the rod off Amazon. After about an hour of fitting and grinding with my Dremel and then doing a little bit more polishing... Im not sure I felt a difference as I never saw my safety or felt my safety move when I was pulling it in DA. It felt nice.... But.... I went to test the pull out of curiosity since I was still getting 6.75 - 7 lb DA pulls and 2.75 lb SA. Well... After this mod... My trigger pulls are 5.9-6lbs in DA and 2.10-2.25 in SA.... I have no idea how it did it but jeeeeebus... It's awesome. Thanks!!
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So after seeing that slvrdragon did it to his S2 and had improvement, I decided to just try it since it was a cheap mod. I didn't really notice anymore SA creep ever since I put in the CGW race hammer and adj sear but I went the Scarlett route and ordered the rod off Amazon. After about an hour of fitting and grinding with my Dremel and then doing a little bit more polishing... Im not sure I felt a difference as I never saw my safety or felt my safety move when I was pulling it in DA. It felt nice.... But.... I went to test the pull out of curiosity since I was still getting 6.75 - 7 lb DA pulls and 2.75 lb SA. Well... After this mod... My trigger pulls are 5.9-6lbs in DA and 2.10-2.25 in SA.... I have no idea how it did it but jeeeeebus... It's awesome. Thanks!!
Well good sir, you are the first to report an improvement in trigger pull weight. Some CZ's have a super good fit and some are a little looser. Very few are sloppy... but even a tight fit pistols like yours still saw gains in an unexpected way. This is pretty cool!
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I was curious is my trigger pull weight changed on the two pistols I did this to a whole back.
My SP-01 Compact SAO with the CGW Race Hammer was about 2lbs 12 ounces when I last tested it. Last night it's average over 10 pulls was 1 lb 15 ounces!! I've loved shooting it since the mod, but didn't realize it had lowered the pull weight. It's incredible! Truly, it is the 1911 killer!
My SP-01 had dropped little less. Down to about 2 lbs 4 ounces. Amazing!
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For whatever reasosn my sp01 shadow does not seem to move, and has a good 2.5 lb trigger with polish and springs, yet my stainless is the one that moves, trigger sometimes seem inconsistent and has a higher pull at about 3.5.
Ironically, the stainless is the one with racehammer too! The Shadow hammer IS stock with a bit of custom work.
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For whatever reasosn my sp01 shadow does not seem to move, and has a good 2.5 lb trigger with polish and springs, yet my stainless is the one that moves, trigger sometimes seem inconsistent and has a higher pull at about 3.5.
Ironically, the stainless is the one with racehammer too! The Shadow hammer IS stock with a bit of custom work.
I have a theory after seeing my lose sear and the Race Hammer. I think the exceptional tolerances and geometry of the Race Hammer might exaggerate those loser sear cages. I don't know the genius behind the little nuances but I definitely notice it has a very crisp break and a little heavier pull than the CZC Competition Hammer. And while I may be way off, my pistol with the Race Hammer saw a significant change with this mod. By no means am I bagging the Race Hammer, these are just observations with a small sample size. I'm sure Scott or David would just love to hear from me again lol.
Let us now how yours turns out. I'm curious enough I would have sent your rods priority just so I could satisfy my curiosity sooner.
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For whatever reasosn my sp01 shadow does not seem to move, and has a good 2.5 lb trigger with polish and springs, yet my stainless is the one that moves, trigger sometimes seem inconsistent and has a higher pull at about 3.5.
Ironically, the stainless is the one with racehammer too! The Shadow hammer IS stock with a bit of custom work.
I have a theory after seeing my lose sear and the Race Hammer. I think the exceptional tolerances and geometry of the Race Hammer might exaggerate those loser sear cages. I don't know the genius behind the little nuances but I definitely notice it has a very crisp break and a little heavier pull than the CZC Competition Hammer. And while I may be way off, my pistol with the Race Hammer saw a significant change with this mod. By no means am I bagging the Race Hammer, these are just observations with a small sample size. I'm sure Scott or David would just love to hear from me again lol.
Let us now how yours turns out. I'm curious enough I would have sent your rods priority just so I could satisfy my curiosity sooner.
I do plan to start with the Stainless as the Shadow is working really well it seems and it is secondary. Yet I will tell you now not to get in a big hurry as I am not sure when I can sit down and concentrate on fitting the rod. I need to review the process again as well.
I hope it helps a bit on weight, but primarily better consistency.
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My experience mimics Scarlett Pistol's. Seems like the race hammer (in my particular pistol) may have increased my DA pull compared to OEM after lots of musical chairs replacing one component at a time to isolate the parts, but the more I shoot it the DA is dropping so that is good. In the final thesis, I will trade a little more DA for a crisper and lighter SA break. No brainer. Glad to be able to put that beast to rest.
I did complete this mod last night and I am terribly jealous of the improvements you guys are seeing. Mine was minuscule, but I still enjoyed the exercise, in a masochistic kind of way : )
Still have a bit of creep that is not noticable, but the mod removed a hair of what very little creep was left in SA. I believe it also squeezed out the very last bit of hammer camming that was left. DA pull was unchanged but SA reduced by 3 oz.
The mod does take a lot of time, a big part for me was trying to find the dang pin when it rolled off my bench.. twice. I have a nicely swept garage now : ). Overall it was good practice and got to know my pistol even more.
Thank you for your help & generosity Scarlett Pistol.
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Ok, so I did manage to do the pin mod on my stainless earlier tonight and the results are in. This gun is fully cajunized with race hammer and blue 13#? mainspring for running any primer.
The before and after on the SA trigger is 3.2 vs 3.0. The sear cage is stable and does not move, with consistency being really good it seems.
I did not ck DA prior to pin, but currently at 7.75 with that mainspring. Not bad at all.
Things are whart they are and this is a great gun, but my Shadow is better with a 2.5 SA and 6.0 DA, although using the 11.5 mainspring.
Thanks again to Scarlett for the pins, and if any others just must do this, I am going to throw out a couple of suggestions to make life easier.
Forget all that metric stuff and just cut your pins to .5 inch in length.
Grind or file the "flat " for fitting on half of it, or 1/4 in.
You will likely need to take about half the diameter off the top to leave a "D" profile. Then stick it back in the corner hole at about 45 angle for fitting.
I used a small diamond cutting disc on the Dremel for cutting the rod and grinding the flat by hand. Worked like a champ. Did the flat grind freehand holding the short pin in fingers sideways against the disc and using eyeball calibration. This type work is easy until you get friggin OLD, and I am getting there it seems!
My cage does not move and that is what matters.
O0
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Thanks Copemech, very beneficial info for this old guy. I haven't had a chance to get a round tuit, but plan to do so before long..
My Shadow is good as is, but the "feel" on the pull and break needs to be improved; so I have fewer lame excuses. ::)
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Just did this on my SP01 Shadow with some .086" pin stock I got on Amazon. Works perfectly. No more movement in the safeties as the hammer drops, no extra slop to the safety engage/disengage, no more slight creep to the SA trigger break. Makes everything feel rock solid.
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So....a few things I have noticed about this improvement, and perhaps some caution:
No doubt, it takes away creep and 'roll' to the SA break, that little bit of hammer cocking on a competition hammer. To those who have converted their CZ's to SAO, this is an absolute plus. You can see why the Tac Sport models have those two little springs on the back of their sear, as it pretty much achieves the same as this and takes away any sear cage movement on a very light SA break. It also takes away that movement in the manual safeties as the hammer falls....even the right side safety which is often pretty loose doesn't seem to move at all.
However, I have found that the 'stabilizing' pin also makes the DA break happen sooner. A lot of us who have fit aftermarket disconnectors in their CZ's have found that at first the DA pulls all the way back then doesn't drop. By filing down either the underside of the disco's wing or the top of the 'knee' it can alleviate that, but if we take off too much the DA breaks a bit earlier than we'd like, which...
a) doesn't have as much hammer power since it falls before the hammer/spring is compressed as much as before, which can result in light strikes....and
b) you have this 'post-slack' where the hammer falls and the trigger sort of slams back at the end under no resistance, resulting in some trigger-slap and discomfort. The latter not being a huge deal if you're only firing DA for the first shot once every run or competition stage, but I find it not as steady throughout the pull, as your sight picture may jump right at the end because of the sudden lack of resistance.
That's that sort of fine balance that I've experienced trying to fit a disco just right, and the 'stabilizing pin' recreates that same early DA release by I guess not letting the sear cage move that little bit with the DA pull, then causing the trigger bar to come off the disco earlier. Again, great for the SA break, but the DA pull can feel a bit chopped off at the knees.
So I assume one could address this the same way as one does by fitting/filing the disco to tune, but it felt like I had to file more to make a difference than just fitting a disco without the stabilizing pin. So I put the stabilizing pin in a SAO SP01 'longslide', which made the trigger feels like the one on a TSO, and then I took it out of my SP01 Shadow and went back to regular pin, since I liked the DA pull with a Pre-B disco and the SA break doesn't have too much creep/roll to bother me. Yeah, the safeties move again on they hammer drop, but it hasn't bothered men yet when shooting in competition, so I don't think it will form here on. The SAO Shadow 'longside', though, is amazing.
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Hey all. What are you guys using to notch the new pin out to accommodate the sear cage?
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You can use a vise to lock the pin in place and use a file to flatten one side of the pin.
I like to keep the bearing surface flat and I touch it up by rounding the bottom with a dremel tool.
Good luck.
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dremel tool is best,take off a little at a time so the sear cage fits tight
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OK fellas. May need some help here.
So I made the new pin. Got it fitted. Sears back in. Clears the slide. Action is working in both DA and SA. However...
The SA reset isn't as audible. Before there was a nice click. Now, the reset is quite faint. Also, it's not as tactile.
I'm running the CGW race hammer and adjustable sear.
Again, everything works but that reset just doesn't seem right or to my liking.
Any ideas?
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The modification can move the sear cage forward in the frame. This can change the feel of the reset. You can try increasing the trigger bar spring tension.
What disco do you have installed?
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i have problem with DA, it became grittier after mod. competition hammer.
it feels like sear is fixed and rubbing hammer at the end of DA pull. before sear was like free floating and smoother (in DA).
but SA is fantastic. i could not ever imagine DA/SA trigger can be close to 1911.
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The modification can move the sear cage forward in the frame. This can change the feel of the reset. You can try increasing the trigger bar spring tension.
What disco do you have installed?
Did the trick. Increased the tension on the trigger bar spring and the reset feels normal again. Thanks!
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i have problem with DA, it became grittier after mod. competition hammer.
it feels like sear is fixed and rubbing hammer at the end of DA pull. before sear was like free floating and smoother (in DA).
but SA is fantastic. i could not ever imagine DA/SA trigger can be close to 1911.
When you say
it became grittier after mod. competition hammer.
I am assuming you mean you did this mod and added the competition hammer. Correct? If so, do you still need help?
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Hi,
Very usefull information!
Did the pin today, I found out that you can use the extractor pin for the job it is the precise height and diameter so I only had to vile it down to the correct fitting size!
Very thankful that you shared the detailed instructions to do the job.
Hammer breaks so sweet right now and there is no movement in the sear cage.
That's all folks, greetings from the Netherlands!
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Hi,
Very usefull information!
Did the pin today, I found out that you can use the extractor pin for the job it is the precise height and diameter so I only had to vile it down to the correct fitting size!
Very thankful that you shared the detailed instructions to do the job.
Hammer breaks so sweet right now and there is no movement in the sear cage.
That's all folks, greetings from the Netherlands!
Glad that it worked out. Thank you for the tip.
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I was directed here by one of my subscribers. This is a gold mine of info! Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
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CZFanGrrl. welcome! Have seen many of your youtube videos and love them. Best to you and enjoy the forum!
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CZFanGrrl. welcome! Have seen many of your youtube videos and love them. Best to you and enjoy the forum!
Thank you! :)
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So after 6 years from doing this project I got a P-01 that needed this extended #19 pin mod.
Just my good deed for the day, turns out that a 2" wide BINDER CLIP (the arms) are just the perfect diameter for this pin. Saved me a lot of time from having to turn down thicker stock.
Brand is UNIVERSAL and it is marked No. 100 LARGE on it.
If you have some in the office lying around its much more convenient than buying rods from Amazon (now out of stock) or using an expensive CZ extractor pin. The CZ extractor pin is the perfect diameter and length, but its still $3 a pop. Costly if you mess up.
(https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/dn2z5do2fr19hxpbunllt/binderclip.jpg?rlkey=6b03xiuilsfuthgit4olsjshv&raw=1)