New CZ Parts Including Rear Sights

[sanger00verdun]

Hi Angus,

I used a sight press and the sight that did fit went in without a complaint. The sight that got chewed up though, it took metal off both the front and back of the sight dovetail. I will be more careful of the next ones.

I had to take a little metal off the sear to get the thumb safety to fit and it's working very well. Having messed with the gun for a couple of days, I think I can get the firing pin safety to work. I was trying for too tight of a window for the SA trigger and realized that I wasn't gettng a clean release on the sear or complete reset. With those adjustments made correctly, I think there is enough range of motion for the firing pin safety to actuate.

And I totally agree that anyone who isn't very mechanically adept/experienced would best be advised to seek the services of a qualified gunsmith. For me, working on guns is as satisfying as shooting them.

Thanks again for all the help.

[angus hobdell]

Sounds likr you know what you are up too.
I love to tinker with guns.
Someone asked if there was anything that I have taht is standard and of course the answer is YES but I still love to make "adjustment"
I will send you out new rear sight and screws Monday
Angus

[sanger00verdun]

Well. Got that done. Total trigger travel is about 7/32". I'll tweak the firing pin block lever some more. The trick of course is getting a shorter trigger travel to actuate the block lever enough to lift the block clear of the firing pin. Maybe weld a bit of steel onto the top lever or shape the lower lever a little higher/shorter.

This is fun.

[angus hobdell]

Hey when you learn about it let me know I am always intersted
Use my angus@ghostholster.com
Thanks

[Matthew Mink]

Angus, since the new parts are out I've installed 6 sets of sights and 1 hammer.  To make a long story short, everything works like it should.  And the CZ shooters are coming out of the woodwork and I can't keep enough of this stuff on hand.  The new hammers sure make our trigger jobs much easier.

[angus hobdell]

Ah duhhhh why do you think we spent so much time working on them.
Aside from the great job Matt.

[atblis]

EGW still sells the P9/Witness sears.  They are very well made and do fit fine in a CZ75, Witness, or AT84.

[pevadijk]

I also fitted the SA trigger and the competition hammer in my 75B and it works pretty well, although I have some small problems.

Sometimes the triggerbow gets locked in it's downward position and it comes back up when I fiddle with the firingpin safety lever......so I guess that I have a little bit of filing and polishing to do  

The safety lever was locked when I installed the hammer and trigger, but after I removed a bit of metal from the safety lever, it now works but not as smoothly as is was.....so maybe this needs some works too.

The funny thing is, that everything works OK when I release the slide with the slidestop, so I guess the triggerbar comes back in it's upward position, but when I gently let the slide ride forward it's sometimes gets stuck.........

First I do some shooting and see how it works, because I'm a bit afraid that I remove too much metal, when I do more fitting......and what the hell, fiddling with my toys is fun too!

[atblis]

I have a similar sounding problem if I get carried away stoning a sear (Basically the sear is too short).

[Unregistered(d)]

atblis, Do you use a fixture when you stone a sear? Can you share your method? Obvious disclamers apply. Thanks.

[atblis]

I've got one of the power custom fixtures.  It allows you to recut angles on the sear  and the hammer hooks with much more precision than you could by hand.

The sear just sounds like it needs fitted to the safety (not hard).  You've just got to be careful not to remove too much metal as there's no going back.  Personally I'd rather remove metal from the sear than the safety lever itself.

[sanger00verdun]

Pevadijk,

You need to take some metal off the front facing surface at the bottom of the firing pin safety block lever.

You can check for function with the sear group in place and hammer back by pushing on the trigger bow. If it get's stuck down, it's not moving forward enough (BTW, back out the front set screw on the trigger while doing this) to clear the block lever. Once the gun's functions 100%, then you can start playing with the front set screw.

Realize that the more you tighten the front screw, the more you have to take off the sear group where it meets the trigger bow.

The whole trigger reset function is predicated on the sear and safety block. The trick to shortening the trigger travel while still actuating the safety block lever rests in removing just enough, but not too much. I can now see why the IPSC Standard and the Champion do not have the firing pin safety. Much easier to get superior performance without having to balance the second sear group lever.

[sanger00verdun]

To fit the safety, I found it easer to take metal off the sear. Just move slow. Dremel, fit, dremel, fit, dremel, fit. Once things are just engaging, polish to final fit.

[pevadijk]

I prefered removing metal from the safety lever, since I have a spare in my parts bin.......otherwise I also would have chosen the sear to remove some metal

[angus hobdell]

ME too whichever I happen to hav the spare of. But I prefer to remove from the saftey easir to work on.
I need to come up with a jig to file the saftey to the correct spot?

Angus