Author Topic: STRIPPING POLYCOAT & GUN BUILD  (Read 45824 times)

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Offline Rhino

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Re: STRIPPING POLYCOAT & GUN BUILD
« Reply #60 on: July 24, 2016, 03:35:32 PM »
As always brother, you are an artist.

Offline krehmkej

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Re: STRIPPING POLYCOAT & GUN BUILD
« Reply #61 on: July 24, 2016, 04:39:46 PM »
An inspiring project for sure.
Anxiously awaiting the finish..
-jwk-

Offline eastman

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Re: STRIPPING POLYCOAT & GUN BUILD
« Reply #62 on: July 24, 2016, 05:15:30 PM »
That is looking great - middle photo shows the contrast the best on my screen.
I don't look like my avatar!

Offline Earl Keese

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Re: STRIPPING POLYCOAT & GUN BUILD
« Reply #63 on: July 24, 2016, 10:24:41 PM »
How do you get the solution on the inside of the frame/slide? Does fume blueing work with the ready made solutions? Or do you need the acids in separate containers inside the box? I'm bluing a Vzor 70  today for practice, water is heating up now. I used Laurel Mountain.

SPO1SHADOW

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Re: STRIPPING POLYCOAT & GUN BUILD
« Reply #64 on: July 25, 2016, 02:24:59 PM »
Unless you can figure out a way to get rid of the Phosphated metal inside or a way to card the rust inside I would not try to brown it on the inside. You may have one rusty mess on your hands. The phosphate will protect the insides from corrosion anyway.

Offline Earl Keese

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Re: STRIPPING POLYCOAT & GUN BUILD
« Reply #65 on: July 25, 2016, 08:31:32 PM »
My vz70 doesn't seem to have the gray phosphate coating you describe on the 75. After I finished sanding, I soaked in vinegar to remove the remaining blue, inside and out. For the first carding I used steel wool outside and a copper brush inside. I applied the second coat of acid at lunch today and just finished boiling. The black "fuzz" is much softer than I expected it to be. I'm working a long day tomorrow, is it ok to wait a day before carding? I'm afraid to let it rust all day while I'm gone. Sorry for the thread hijack, I should probably start a new one or pm you.

SPO1SHADOW

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Re: STRIPPING POLYCOAT & GUN BUILD
« Reply #66 on: July 25, 2016, 10:22:13 PM »
I would be in a situation I could check on it at least every 2 hours. It can pit the metal if left on too long. There is no harm in stopping the process and oiling it then degrease it and continue when you have the time to stay with it which is what I do when I run out of weekend.
« Last Edit: July 26, 2016, 05:59:18 AM by SPO1SHADOW »

SPO1SHADOW

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Re: STRIPPING POLYCOAT & GUN BUILD
« Reply #67 on: July 26, 2016, 06:25:17 PM »
Well, I got through early today at work and was within 200 miles from home so I came home early and decided to start putting things together just for a trial run. I don't have all the parts yet but I had enough substitutions so you get a good idea on how it will look when it is completely finished. I have got to say if you work on these guns you must buy one of CZ Custom's bench blocks. The part that holds the hammer while you drive out/in the hammer pins is worth its weight in gold. It comes in very handy when assembling and disassembling the gun and it will be a purchase you will be glad you made after you figure out all the neat things it does.





I got it put together enough to do some initial test firing. All the action parts were polished and omitted pictures of this as there have been many posted in the past. The Rosewood grips were handy so I stuck them on. The guy at LOK grips is making a set of Bogies that is in this same shape or the Shadow style to go on this gun. I have ordered a heavy full length guide rod from Dlask in Canada for this project. It is just as robust as the 97B guide rod and much easier to get into the gun. I used a disco from a pre-B gun along with a pre-B thin trigger and omitted the firing pin block and lifter. I installed one of CGW's reduced power trigger return springs, a CZC extended firing pin and replaced all the springs inside the slide and frame with new ones. I installed all new pins, CGW's floating trigger pin, installed a wide sear so no spacer was needed. I used a 13# main spring and one of the heavy duty mag guides. I used a narrowed Shadow hammer installed with the H pins from CGW's and one of their 10X bushings. When the storm that is shaking the house is over I will go out in the steam bath and shoot a few groups and check for functioning. I throated the pristine barrel that came with this gun so it can take 147 grain coated bullets out to 1.150 without choking and removed all the machine marks and polished the feed ramp. I will report back on how she shoots.




Offline The Conservative

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Re: STRIPPING POLYCOAT & GUN BUILD
« Reply #68 on: July 26, 2016, 07:44:19 PM »
Impressive.  Very well done and thanks for sharing, this thread is very helpful.  This thread gave me the kick in the butt that I need to start my transitional 75.  Will be off next week so I should finish it then.  Going with a simpler finish though, Gun Kote.  Something I have used quite a bit and am familiar with.  I was not sure how I was going to do the beavertail (only complaint about ergos) but you pointed me in the right direction.  That was impressive file work milling the slide for the rear sight.  No way would I attempt that.
“The projectiles need to go where they will make the guy leak the quickest.  Your goal is to depressurize the circulatory system – let air in, let fluid out. Bonus points for any other disruptions, but don’t count on them.”   Pat Rogers

SPO1SHADOW

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Re: STRIPPING POLYCOAT & GUN BUILD
« Reply #69 on: July 26, 2016, 07:50:55 PM »
Thank you much for the kind words. I found out that the front sight needs to be taller. With the sight bottomed out it is shooting 3" high at 15 yards. So I will need to change it from the .125 tall (.215) sight to a .155 tall sight. Then the storm started again so that's enough for today.

Offline k30l4

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Re: STRIPPING POLYCOAT & GUN BUILD
« Reply #70 on: July 26, 2016, 09:34:30 PM »
Would you be so kind and show more photos of the finished beaver tail? That part of the build is very impressive to me. I can't stand the way that beaver tail digs into my hand.

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SPO1SHADOW

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Re: STRIPPING POLYCOAT & GUN BUILD
« Reply #71 on: July 26, 2016, 10:19:41 PM »
The best way I can describe it and the easy way I found to do it is take your moto tool with a coarse grit drum to begin with and cut the bottom sharp edge of the end of the tail moving the drum length ways only. Don't try to go across the beaver tail as it will make deep gouges that are very hard to reshape later. Work the drum length ways on both sides of the rear of the tail trying to delete the sharp edge and end in an upward motion toward the center rounding the material up and to a point in the center of the tail. Once the sharp edge is gone go to a higher grit drum and again in a length wise only motion shape both side until they match and form a more pointed beaver tail on the rear. Then use ever higher sand paper strips in a shoe shine motion until all the grinding marks are gone and the underside of the beaver tails looks rounded and even.






Offline k30l4

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Re: STRIPPING POLYCOAT & GUN BUILD
« Reply #72 on: July 26, 2016, 10:28:53 PM »
Beautifully done. Excellent job on the write up and with lots of great photos. Thanks for the extra photos.

I am actually trying to sell both cz75b's that I own. The reason is that beaver tail. I literally shot 30 rounds and packed the gun away. The other is unfired. Seeing that this may be something I could pull off, I may change my mind on selling them. Thanks again.

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Offline Rhino

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Re: STRIPPING POLYCOAT & GUN BUILD
« Reply #73 on: July 26, 2016, 11:56:39 PM »
Well, I got through early today at work and was within 200 miles from home so I came home early and decided to start putting things together just for a trial run. I don't have all the parts yet but I had enough substitutions so you get a good idea on how it will look when it is completely finished. I have got to say if you work on these guns you must buy one of CZ Custom's bench blocks. The part that holds the hammer while you drive out/in the hammer pins is worth its weight in gold. It comes in very handy when assembling and disassembling the gun and it will be a purchase you will be glad you made after you figure out all the neat things it does.





I got it put together enough to do some initial test firing. All the action parts were polished and omitted pictures of this as there have been many posted in the past. The Rosewood grips were handy so I stuck them on. The guy at LOK grips is making a set of Bogies that is in this same shape or the Shadow style to go on this gun. I have ordered a heavy full length guide rod from Dlask in Canada for this project. It is just as robust as the 97B guide rod and much easier to get into the gun. I used a disco from a pre-B gun along with a pre-B thin trigger and omitted the firing pin block and lifter. I installed one of CGW's reduced power trigger return springs, a CZC extended firing pin and replaced all the springs inside the slide and frame with new ones. I installed all new pins, CGW's floating trigger pin, installed a wide sear so no spacer was needed. I used a 13# main spring and one of the heavy duty mag guides. I used a narrowed Shadow hammer installed with the H pins from CGW's and one of their 10X bushings. When the storm that is shaking the house is over I will go out in the steam bath and shoot a few groups and check for functioning. I throated the pristine barrel that came with this gun so it can take 147 grain coated bullets out to 1.150 without choking and removed all the machine marks and polished the feed ramp. I will report back on how she shoots.





Beautiful!

SPO1SHADOW

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Re: STRIPPING POLYCOAT & GUN BUILD
« Reply #74 on: July 27, 2016, 05:55:39 AM »
Thank you Sir, I appreciate the kind words. I hope he will be happy with it, I have put my best into it. I purchased a carrying case that allows fitting the gun and 3 magazines. I cant wait to give it to him and see the look on that Devil Dog's face.