My Pre-B refinishing and modification diary

[Earl Keese]

I'd keep cycling until it won't rust anymore. Just remember, if you want it to keep developing color after you oil it, don't use an oil with rust inhibitors. I believe that's why boiled linseed oil is preferred. At least that's what I recall from a conversation with SP01SHADOW.

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I'm a bit torn because I'm hoping to match the color and in my mind that means that I need to follow the same steps. I used non detergent motor oil and let the parts sit in it overnight. Maybe longer I have to go back and re-read this thread.

I do have linseed oil at the ready. I've just never opened up the can.

*edit* I looked at a message that SP01SHADOW sent to me. He recommended non detergent motor oil or boiled linseed oil.

That guy is a living legend to me. I wish I could build a gun from the ground up with him.

I've learned more from SP01SHADOW(regarding this subject) than anyone else to date. Awesome guy, I sincerely wish he was still on the forum.

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[Underwhere]

Bluing Cycle #6
This is cycle #7 for the controls and #6 for the frame.

The controls are not rusting much anymore. Not much to card off. I may be done. Maybe I'll do them one more time.

The frame is also decreasing in rust. I find that there is a layer on the flats of the frame but really everywhere else is very minimal. I may do a few more cycles just for good measure but I'm getting there.

There are still splotches here and there. I'm hoping the more cycles I do the more they disappear.

Again shown next to the slide that I blued last year.

[Earl Keese]

Looks to me like the spots are minimizing, yes?

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[Underwhere]

Looks to me like the spots are minimizing, yes?

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Yes the dark. Spots are not so dark anymore. I do have some other discolorations but maybe I'm just looking too hard.

[Earl Keese]

Mine have had a few that don't show when oiled.

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[Underwhere]

Mine have had a few that don't show when oiled.

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That's my hope. Unfortunately I won't know until I oil it. So I think I'll do a few more cycles just in case.

[SoCal]

It does look pretty IMHO

[Earl Keese]

It does look pretty IMHO

I agree! Nothing better than a deep dark blue

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[Underwhere]

Bluing Cycle #7
This is cycle #8 for the controls and #7 for the frame.

I think I'm done with the controls. The slide stop lever still seems light but it's really not rusting.

I'm going to toss in a container of non detergent motor oil tonight.

Here are pics of everything compared to my already blued slide.

The frame has areas no longer rusting but I think it has a few more to go.

Still not sure how to get it to match the slide.

[Underwhere]

It's so satisfying dunking these controls in motor oil.

They take on an immediate rich luster. I'm  hoping maybe I can capture the color change from the oil and curing of the metal somehow.

[Underwhere]

What these 2 parts look like 8 hours later

[Underwhere]

Bluing Cycle #8
This is cycle #8 for the frame.

On the back strap and front strap there are large darker areas. I'm going to keep bluing.

I noticed the area towards the muzzle has some textured appearance to it. This is the area that touched a paper towel as I was applying the rusting solution (on the very first cycle). So I guess I need to be more careful in the future. Applying solution apparently requires a lot of finesse. Doing more cycles may not fix mistakes made in prior cycles.

One issue I have with the frame is simply how to hold the frame while heating it up. I use wire but the frame moves around a bit. Having a more rigid base would allow me to be better with the rusting applications.

The controls are still soaking. It's been 1 day so far. I'm going to wait 3.

[Earl Keese]

Was the large spot on the back strap there after the previous cycle? It didn't show in the pics, at least not as prominent as this time around.

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[Underwhere]

Was the large spot on the back strap there after the previous cycle? It didn't show in the pics, at least not as prominent as this time around.

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No it was not. Interesting huh

[Earl Keese]

 Yes it is odd. That would indicate something to with the process I think.
 I haven't used your method, only slow rust. I've had a few spots show after the first or second cycle but they've always disappeared or minimized with more cycles. I've always been careful not to overlap during acid application. I use bore patches soaked and then squeezed out almost dry, just enough to wet the surface.
That said, some overlap is unavoidable.

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