My Pre-B refinishing and modification diary

[sberres]

  Rust bluing is one of those finishes which exploit the fact that the oxide form of the metal is actually somewhat more durable than the parent metal from which it formed and is really no different than the principles which enhance the corrosion resistance of aluminum or copper (and various alloys) through the formation of the patina. For as simple a process as it is its utility is quite remarkable and why I would favor it even over a (perhaps) somewhat more attractive, high luster, hot caustic blue where the coloration is not nearly as durable.  And it really wasn?t very long ago that I thought all bluing was either ?factory? or something like the low-end cold blue products. This is a great place to learn.
  I hope that things go much more smoothly for you when you get to the beavertail extension this time. I?m pretty sure that it will now that you?ve gotten the gas hose issue ironed out. I just couldn't imagine that your metal was that hot or polluted to cause such issues time and again. And it sure didn't occur to me that your shielding was compromised by such a thing. Keep up the good work!

[Underwhere]

  Rust bluing is one of those finishes which exploit the fact that the oxide form of the metal is actually somewhat more durable than the parent metal from which it formed and is really no different than the principles which enhance the corrosion resistance of aluminum or copper (and various alloys) through the formation of the patina. For as simple a process as it is its utility is quite remarkable and why I would favor it even over a (perhaps) somewhat more attractive, high luster, hot caustic blue where the coloration is not nearly as durable.  And it really wasn?t very long ago that I thought all bluing was either ?factory? or something like the low-end cold blue products. This is a great place to learn.
  I hope that things go much more smoothly for you when you get to the beavertail extension this time. I?m pretty sure that it will now that you?ve gotten the gas hose issue ironed out. I just couldn't imagine that your metal was that hot or polluted to cause such issues time and again. And it sure didn't occur to me that your shielding was compromised by such a thing. Keep up the good work!

I agree on the learning part. I've learned (and still am) on all the different types of "bluing" that are done. Some by cotton swap, some by heat, some superficially etc.

The welding should go much smoother this type. I hope.

[The Guardian]

I'm pretty sure the solution used to do the rust bluing can also be used to remove it as well, kind of pulls double duty as it were...application & removal.....may want to try that....just an FYI.  Then do the prep sanding for the next finishing process. 

[Underwhere]

I'm pretty sure the solution used to do the rust bluing can also be used to remove it as well, kind of pulls double duty as it were...application & removal.....may want to try that....just an FYI.  Then do the prep sanding for the next finishing process. 

Thanks I may try that.

I hit it with a wire wheel on a Dremel and that didn't seem to work. It did smooth the surface though.

I do wonder if any dark spots I leave will stay dark or whether the bluing will just even everything out.  i.e. Do I really need to surface prep to a uniform bare steel.

Tonight I started the welding work.
I cut a tab from some plain steel stock I had laying around and then tacked it in place.

Then with 7 or 8 passes I secured it on the underside (it's not the prettiest)

The professional welder I was going to was able to do this keeping the frame pretty cool. Every time I weld it gets really hot. I guess that's the difference between a pro and an out-of-practice amateur.

No big deal. I will clean it up nice in the end.

[Earl Keese]

Why not use Evaporust?

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[Underwhere]

Why not use Evaporust?

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After hand surgery it's going to be hard for me to reblue the inside of the frame. If I submerge in Evaporust I will have to.

So if I can avoid that I want to. Maybe I can't.

[Earl Keese]

Why not use Evaporust?

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After hand surgery it's going to be hard for me to reblue the inside of the frame. If I submerge in Evaporust I will have to.

So if I can avoid that I want to. Maybe I can't.

You don't necessarily have to submerge, just a thought.

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[Underwhere]

Yes that's a good idea.
I think I'll try and finish up the welding and maybe soak a paper towel in it and see whether I can get that to work.

[Underwhere]

Night 2 of welding and grinding.
I think I need to sharpen and extend my electrode a bit. I need more accurate and cooler welds.

The rough shape is there compared to an S2 but a bunch of small pits and edges I need to clean up.

It seems so simple but to do perfectly will probably take me another 6 or 7 nights of welding and grinding.

This time I was trying to create a pocket for the hammer to fall into like a 1911. Not sure if it'll end up that way.

[Earl Keese]

Getting there! Most people don't understand how much trial and error is involved with metal work. Not a hobby for the faint of heart.

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[Hypo]

Really enjoying this thread.
It is an inspiration.
I have a Tri-Star L-120 that I am now thinking about extending the beaver tail on and sweeping it upwards.

[Old-Duckman]

Getting there! Most people don't understand how much trial and error is involved with metal work. Not a hobby for the faint of heart.

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But for those who have worked wood and metal the best thing about metal is when you have finished, it doesn't move. The same can not be said of wood.

Just saw this thread today and only looked at the most recent posts. Interesting task and it looks to be coming along nicely.

I'm curious as to why you are rust bluing instead of polishing and sending it out to be hot blued. Last year (or 2016..?) I bought a surplus 75 pre-B mine had the squared off trigger guard which I shaped to the round configuration and...of course uncovered a pit that needed to be welded. I was not at all adept with a TIG welder but I practiced, read up and gave it a shot. It turned out really well but I did send it out for hot bluing. A local shop charges only $50 if you bring the piece in disassembled and polished, which I did.

The original poly finish was difficult to remove. I tried paint stripper first..waste of time. I did get the old finish off by soda blasting. That took it down to where I was able to polish it up nicely. I do have a polishing motor and used soft felt wheels charged with 120 grit through 400 grit and finished the curved areas with a loose muslin wheel charged with 400 grit and used felt bobs on a Foredom flex shaft (charged with the same compounds) to do the areas that were unreachable when polishing on the wheel. I was very pleased with the finished results but under certain lighting the weld does show up as a slightly different color.

Looking forward to seeing pix of the finished piece.

[Earl Keese]

Getting there! Most people don't understand how much trial and error is involved with metal work. Not a hobby for the faint of heart.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

But for those who have worked wood and metal the best thing about metal is when you have finished, it doesn't move. The same can not be said of wood.

Just saw this thread today and only looked at the most recent posts. Interesting task and it looks to be coming along nicely.

I'm curious as to why you are rust bluing instead of polishing and sending it out to be hot blued. Last year (or 2016..?) I bought a surplus 75 pre-B mine had the squared off trigger guard which I shaped to the round configuration and...of course uncovered a pit that needed to be welded. I was not at all adept with a TIG welder but I practiced, read up and gave it a shot. It turned out really well but I did send it out for hot bluing. A local shop charges only $50 if you bring the piece in disassembled and polished, which I did.

The original poly finish was difficult to remove. I tried paint stripper first..waste of time. I did get the old finish off by soda blasting. That took it down to where I was able to polish it up nicely. I do have a polishing motor and used soft felt wheels charged with 120 grit through 400 grit and finished the curved areas with a loose muslin wheel charged with 400 grit and used felt bobs on a Foredom flex shaft (charged with the same compounds) to do the areas that were unreachable when polishing on the wheel. I was very pleased with the finished results but under certain lighting the weld does show up as a slightly different color.

Looking forward to seeing pix of the finished piece.

Hot bluing is prettier, but not nearly as durable as slow rust blue. Slow rust blue is also particularly well suited to diy application.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[Underwhere]

Getting there! Most people don't understand how much trial and error is involved with metal work. Not a hobby for the faint of heart.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

But for those who have worked wood and metal the best thing about metal is when you have finished, it doesn't move. The same can not be said of wood.

Just saw this thread today and only looked at the most recent posts. Interesting task and it looks to be coming along nicely.

I'm curious as to why you are rust bluing instead of polishing and sending it out to be hot blued. Last year (or 2016..?) I bought a surplus 75 pre-B mine had the squared off trigger guard which I shaped to the round configuration and...of course uncovered a pit that needed to be welded. I was not at all adept with a TIG welder but I practiced, read up and gave it a shot. It turned out really well but I did send it out for hot bluing. A local shop charges only $50 if you bring the piece in disassembled and polished, which I did.

The original poly finish was difficult to remove. I tried paint stripper first..waste of time. I did get the old finish off by soda blasting. That took it down to where I was able to polish it up nicely. I do have a polishing motor and used soft felt wheels charged with 120 grit through 400 grit and finished the curved areas with a loose muslin wheel charged with 400 grit and used felt bobs on a Foredom flex shaft (charged with the same compounds) to do the areas that were unreachable when polishing on the wheel. I was very pleased with the finished results but under certain lighting the weld does show up as a slightly different color.

Looking forward to seeing pix of the finished piece.

Doing this gun is both about the journey as well as the destination. While I could perhaps send it out for an easy bluing job, my preference for this gun is to try and accomplish everything myself. I've never done hot bluing but have Cerakoted, rust blued, parkerized, heat colored etc. All fun stuff.

I'm not opposed to sending out (I just spent 2 months modifying and metal prepping a compact which I sent out for hard chrome).

I think I prefer the rust blue over the hot blue finish. Something about the character of rust blue vs the more sterile hot blue. I also did not have any discoloration when I rust blued.

I also want to match the other pre-b I just finished.

I understand the pit in the trigger guard. It's happened to me on multiple guns in the exact same place.

[Underwhere]

Really enjoying this thread.
It is an inspiration.
I have a Tri-Star L-120 that I am now thinking about extending the beaver tail on and sweeping it upwards.

Good luck. Just be patient.
I was thinking of doing the same on my P120. I don't know what finish I'd like applied to it though. It's silver Cerakote now. I dunno if I want to blue it, hard chrome it or whatever. Still not sure if I want to do that gun yet.