My Pre-B refinishing and modification diary

[Underwhere]

The pits happen if you leave it too long before boiling. Are you cleaning with acetone before reapplying acid?

No I haven't been. Carding then reapplying.

Here it is after being in the sweat box for 7 hours.

Is this fine rust good enough to boil?
It's very slight.

[Earl Keese]

If I can get 90% humidity, I usually boil after 4-5 hours. I've left it as long as over night or a typical work day.

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[Underwhere]

If I can get 90% humidity, I usually boil after 4-5 hours. I've left it as long as over night or a typical work day.

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Thanks for that reference. That's helpful.

[Underwhere]

After boiling and carding.

I think I may have some pits. Maybe I left it for too long (24 hours) during the first rusting.

This is very different from the express blue process.

[Earl Keese]

I saw the spot near the safety recess before you boiled. As long as the pit isn't to deep, you could try rubbing harder with some steel wool at the next carding. Even if you make a light spot in the finish,  it should even out with more cycles. At least that's been my experience. Make sure your sweat box isn't air tight. You need a little air movement so condensation doesn't form.

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[Earl Keese]

Yes the fine rust is ok to boil at that point. It should look like a thin covering of brown or sometimes yellowish velvet. Sometimes it's even, sometimes not. I've learned to just accept it and do another cycle.

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[sberres]

I’ve had a couple of spots that I didn’t notice while in the white but at the first application were clearly different. Boiling didn’t make them better. The first time I tried to let it ride all the way through. Nope, a little pitted area above the mag release that wasn’t getting better. I resanded that side and went through the process again. Don’t know if was base metal related or local contamination, or maybe even just a spot that got started badly with the rust. Probably the latter. But it turned out fine.
Do like Earl says but for sure if it won’t straighten out right away it won’t get better as you go by leaving it.

[Underwhere]

I think I'll designate this as my "shooter" CZ.
There already some imperfections around the beavertail and trigger guard that are pretty obvious.

I'll just need to do this whole process again with a new gun. I have some ideas on doing the beavertail next time around.

[Underwhere]

This is the 3rd rusting.
Left in the sweat box for 6 hours with some venting this time.

[Earl Keese]

Is it starting to pit at the front?

[Underwhere]

Is it starting to pit at the front?

I think that's just some crustiness from the rusting solution.

It looked fine after I carded and I rusted for less time and in less humidity this past cycle.

So I hope not.

I'll try and boil tonight and see.
It's sitting in 56% humidity at the moment.

[Earl Keese]

Not sure how heavy you're applying the solution. I use folded cleaning patches, saturated but not wet. Should leave the surface of the work piece just barely wet.

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[Underwhere]

Maybe I'll switch to a different solution.
I'm still using express blue.

I have some laurel mountain

[Earl Keese]

In my experience, Laurel Mountain is by far the most forgiving to use.

[Underwhere]

In my experience, Laurel Mountain is by far the most forgiving to use.

That's exactly what I need then