My Pre-B refinishing and modification diary

[sberres]

  I’ve been using the Brownells Classic as I think it’s supposed to be a reverse formulation of the pilkingtons at about 1/3 the cost. I use a cotton swab that’s been barely dipped and wrung out so that all I get is a quickly dissipating dampness on slightly warmed parts. As in, only warm enough to be sure it’s dry and free of any water (it as dried after it came out of the boil, too) and acetone from the quick rinse given before each application. I will also use one of those little acid brushes like for applying solder flux, dipped minimally, to apply in serrations, dovetail cuts, and other impossible
to reach crevices that will show (not the frame insides). I do these spots first and then blot dry with a clean cotton-ball before proceeding with the open areas. Anything that looks wet get blotted dry right away to avoid any puddling or drips. 
  I’ve not used a box or tried humidification at all. Only hang in the garage during the day or overnight for about 10-12 hrs max. I presume less is better than more, honestly, and it’ll get there with enough applications.  But I do get impatient when it looks pretty decent after about 6 cycles.

[Underwhere]

After tonight's boiling and carding I'm switching to Laurel Mountain.

The directions are very different but I'm going to follow the same process that I have been.

Light heat to warm it, very light patch, no overlapping, 6 hours of sweat box at probably 75% humidity.

I'm also going to rust the controls again. They never got any darker last time I was Bluing so I think I need another few cycles.

[Underwhere]

Here's the gun after boiling and carding.
This would be the end of the 3rd cycle. Some spots here and there but nothing extreme.

I think I'm definitely getting some pitting.
Just solidifies this as a designated shooter.

I'll make another BBQ gun later.

I switched over to Laurel Mountain and ended up applying the solution with a q-tip.
I started with really small areas and it was going well so I just kept doing it.

I'm not sure if this is getting any darker.

I have a timer set on my sweat box for 5 hours.

[Earl Keese]

With all the problems you have had, why stick to your own process and not try Laurel Mountain's?

[Underwhere]

With all the problems you have had, why stick to your own process and not try Laurel Mountain's?

I was going to but it's more geared to browning than Bluing. They make no mention of carding but rather "De-scaling" with a cloth dipped in hot water.

Other than that difference it's mostly the same.

[Underwhere]

After 5 hours of rusting at 70% humidity

The controls are barely rusting so I'll let them go a little longer.

Time for some boiling

[Earl Keese]

With all the problems you have had, why stick to your own process and not try Laurel Mountain's?

I was going to but it's more geared to browning than Bluing. They make no mention of carding but rather "De-scaling" with a cloth dipped in hot water.

Other than that difference it's mostly the same.

Gotcha, that makes sense. It's been quite a while since I looked at those instructions. I don't neutralize after the last cycle, I soak the parts with WD40 or linseed oil, bag them up and let the color continue to develop for a week or so. Looking back, most of my instruction came from SP01SHADOW, so I didn't follow the L.M. instructions either. One other thing, I don't heat the parts before applying acid. I think that accelerates the process and may be the cause of some of your pitting.

[Underwhere]

With all the problems you have had, why stick to your own process and not try Laurel Mountain's?

I was going to but it's more geared to browning than Bluing. They make no mention of carding but rather "De-scaling" with a cloth dipped in hot water.

Other than that difference it's mostly the same.

Gotcha, that makes sense. It's been quite a while since I looked at those instructions. I don't neutralize after the last cycle, I soak the parts with WD40 or linseed oil, bag them up and let the color continue to develop for a week or so. Looking back, most of my instruction came from SP01SHADOW, so I didn't follow the L.M. instructions either. One other thing, I don't heat the parts before applying acid. I think that accelerates the process and may be the cause of some of your pitting.

The reason I heat - cold parts thrown into a sweat chamber may cause condensation to build up.

But yes maybe it is causing pitting.

I'm finding that the application with the q-tip worked out more evenly than by cleaning patch.

[Earl Keese]

With all the problems you have had, why stick to your own process and not try Laurel Mountain's?

I was going to but it's more geared to browning than Bluing. They make no mention of carding but rather "De-scaling" with a cloth dipped in hot water.

Other than that difference it's mostly the same.

Gotcha, that makes sense. It's been quite a while since I looked at those instructions. I don't neutralize after the last cycle, I soak the parts with WD40 or linseed oil, bag them up and let the color continue to develop for a week or so. Looking back, most of my instruction came from SP01SHADOW, so I didn't follow the L.M. instructions either. One other thing, I don't heat the parts before applying acid. I think that accelerates the process and may be the cause of some of your pitting.

The reason I heat - cold parts thrown into a sweat chamber may cause condensation to build up.

But yes maybe it is causing pitting.

I'm finding that the application with the q-tip worked out more evenly than by cleaning patch.

I agree, the q-tip works well. I found it takes too long on a rifle though. ;-)
 I do use q-tips for hard to reach areas like the trigger pin hole, safety recess etc.
 



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[Underwhere]

Cycle #4 complete. This time with Laurel Mountain and a q-tip as an applicator.

Things are looking better now. I think it's actually getting darker. It's evening out. No more pitting.

I just put on another coat of rusting solution for the start of cycle #5.

[Underwhere]

Cycle 5 complete with Laurel Mountain and a 1-tip.

I think I should have squeezed more solution out of the q tip before applying for this cycle. Still OK.

I left it in the sweat box a little longer this time. It didn't show much rust after 5 hours. I went 7.

I'm not convinced things are getting darker... But I guess I'll just do this a few more times and see.

I am trying to match the slide and safety which I did last year and they are much darker.

So I did another rusting and put the controls in the box and plan on rusting them a few more hours than the frame.

With the sweat box are you supposed to wait longer and longer with each cycle or is that just with a natural environment?

[Earl Keese]

With each cycle it takes longer for (less) rust to form.

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[Underwhere]

With each cycle it takes longer for (less) rust to form.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Thanks.

I think next time I'll take a Pic on some white paper and see whether this is actually getting darker or not.

[Earl Keese]

I just keep up with rust cycles until it stops rusting. After the last carding, I bag it in oil w/o rust inhibitors and it will usually darken further.

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[Underwhere]

I just keep up with rust cycles until it stops rusting. After the last carding, I bag it in oil w/o rust inhibitors and it will usually darken further.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Ever try and match a bluing?

And how long have you waited for it not to rust? (when do you call it quits)