My Pre-B refinishing and modification diary

[Underwhere]

Bluing Cycle #1 (redo after re-sanding frame)
Here we go again.

Degreased.
Warmed.
Into fresh acetone.
Warmed
Bluing solution applied
Now going to boil once the water is at temp.

[Underwhere]

Better.

Still some spots but definitely not like before.

I'm not sure what the spot on the backstrap is. I may need to sand that one out.

On the right front of the frame I recall letting the frame rest on my clean paper towel while I was applying the bluing solution so there's a reason for that checkered pattern. I hope I can just blue over that.

[Earl Keese]

My first cycle always has a few dark spots.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[Underwhere]

My first cycle always has a few dark spots.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Would you continue as-is with it?

The backstrap has some extremely dark spots.

[Earl Keese]

I never use express blue, so I can't say for sure. When slow rust blueing I've learned not to panic until after maybe the third cycle.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[Underwhere]

I never use express blue, so I can't say for sure. When slow rust blueing I've learned not to panic until after maybe the third cycle.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

OK. I'll see what happens then

No panicking for me. It's already been a year. What's a few more days/weeks/months

[Earl Keese]

I did a Winchester Model 70 last year. I really struggled getting it clean and started over twice. On the third go round it still had some dark spots but I was sure it was clean. I was frustrated and said what the heck, I'll just keep going for the experience. It ended up turning out really nice after 6 cycles.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[Underwhere]

I did a Winchester Model 70 last year. I really struggled getting it clean and started over twice. On the third go round it still had some dark spots but I was sure it was clean. I was frustrated and said what the heck, I'll just keep going for the experience. It ended up turning out really nice after 6 cycles.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Do you replace your distilled water every cycle?

[Earl Keese]

I did a Winchester Model 70 last year. I really struggled getting it clean and started over twice. On the third go round it still had some dark spots but I was sure it was clean. I was frustrated and said what the heck, I'll just keep going for the experience. It ended up turning out really nice after 6 cycles.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Do you replace your distilled water every cycle?

Nope. I did when I started, now I just replace it when it gets funky. Maybe every three cycles depending on how many parts/frames I'm bluing.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[Underwhere]

Bluing Cycle #2
It's getting better. I'm developing more spots but I hope they even themselves out and disappear.

Tossed the slide above the frame to see the difference in color.

[Underwhere]

Bluing Cycle #3
This is cycle #4 for the controls and #3 for the frame (I re-sanded the frame after the first cycle)

The blotches are still there. I think a bit minimized. Not totally sure. It's hard to tell.

I think I'm going to take a the controls to 6 cycles and maybe the frame to 10 or so.

[Underwhere]

Bluing Cycle #4
This is cycle #5 for the controls and #4 for the frame.

Still some blotchyness. I even think some areas are. Getting worse. Perhaps that means they are actually getting better because they are darker.

Maybe the blotchyness is actually darker Bluing. What a plot twist that would be.

[Underwhere]

Bluing Cycle #5
This is cycle #6 for the controls and #5 for the frame. Last night I rusted and today I was able to boil, card then do another Bluing Cycle again. So two in one night.

I did make a mistake the second time around of not having enough water. I had to add a bit more to the boiling water to cover the frame. That lowered the water temp and it took another few minutes to come back to boil. I don't know what effect that would have on the Bluing.

I compared the parts to my slide which I blued almost a year ago. The slide is much darker. I remember even though I put slide and frame through the same number of cycles on my first go around, the slide ended up being darker.

I'm not quite sure how to match the Bluing.
I'm not sure how much the frame will deepen as it settles. I think that happens after final carding and leaving it in oil.

At first I thought the controls need 6 cycles but I may do some more just in case. I should figure out how to show the difference in color between cycles a bit better.

[Earl Keese]

I'd keep cycling until it won't rust anymore. Just remember, if you want it to keep developing color after you oil it, don't use an oil with rust inhibitors. I believe that's why boiled linseed oil is preferred. At least that's what I recall from a conversation with SP01SHADOW.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[Underwhere]

I'd keep cycling until it won't rust anymore. Just remember, if you want it to keep developing color after you oil it, don't use an oil with rust inhibitors. I believe that's why boiled linseed oil is preferred. At least that's what I recall from a conversation with SP01SHADOW.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

I'm a bit torn because I'm hoping to match the color and in my mind that means that I need to follow the same steps. I used non detergent motor oil and let the parts sit in it overnight. Maybe longer I have to go back and re-read this thread.

I do have linseed oil at the ready. I've just never opened up the can.

*edit* I looked at a message that SP01SHADOW sent to me. He recommended non detergent motor oil or boiled linseed oil.

That guy is a living legend to me. I wish I could build a gun from the ground up with him.